World Youth Champs Summary

Because of exams, which finished some weeks ago, I was busy and didn't get around to updating my blog. So here's a summary of the World Youth Champs.

Wednesday 17 August

We had a one and a half hour train ride to a different climbing gym with a ten metre speed wall. When we got there we found out they no longer had the speed holds up on the wall (we found some of them in the boulder room), so we did onsighting instead. After some not great first attempts Ken gave us a team talk about how, after going to the swimming complex the day before, we were in 'holiday mode' and needed to switch into hard climbing mode. After Ken's motivating talk I was putting more effort in and getting further on the climbs.

Thursday 18 - Sunday 21 August: last days in Munich

We had three more days in Munich. We went to the Dachau Memorial Concentration Camp and watched the semi-finals and finals of the Boulder World Cup at the Olympic Stadium. One night we watched as more and more people arrived outside our hostel to film a scene or part of a scene for a movie. On Sunday we caught a coach to Imst, Austria.

Sunday 21 - Wednesday 24 August: Comp prep in Imst

We climbed on the indoor wall on Sunday and Monday (the Comp would be on the outdoor wall) and met some of the other competitors who were also doing some last minute training. On Tuesday we went up to the Alpine Coaster for the third year running but the ride didn't seem worth the money so I sat around instead.

Thursday 25 - Sunday 28 August: The World Youth Champs

My first qualifier went ok but I think I could have got further. The climb was very cool and I enjoyed trying it. The next day on my second qualifier I psyched myself out about a move low down and fell off there. I was very frustrated and disappointed about that climb.

In the speed qualification I did better than last year's time and got under 20 seconds.

The team's results were

Junior Male

Daniel: lead: 54, speed: 26 (16.99)

Youth A Male

Christoph: lead: 34, speed: 27 (18.76)
Sam: lead: 65, speed: 33 (22.08)
J.J. (me): lead: 67, speed: 30 (19.80)

Youth B Male

Josh: lead: 39, speed: 27 (21.23)
Kaze: lead: 46, speed: 32 (33.36)
Peanut: lead: 49, speed: 28 (22.90)

Youth B Female

Tayla: lead: 39, speed: 29 (34.29)
Aiyana: lead: 45, speed: 32 (46.05)
Alex: lead: 61, speed: 31 (45.93)

The next day it was raining. The semi-finals were in the morning and we all went down to watch. I got very cold and wet but I stuck it out to the end. In the afternoon the clouds cleared and the mountains all around were covered in snow. In the evening we watched the finals and then the medal ceremony.

On Sunday, the last day of the competition, we headed down to watch the speed finals and trade some of our team uniform. I ended up with a Swiss hoody and a Singapore singlet. We went to the after party that afternoon but the only countries attending were us, the Ausies, South Africa and Japan.

Monday 29 August - Thursday 1 September: Heading back home

We had another long coach ride back to Munich. In the afternoon we did some shopping and I somehow managed to get left by myself in the climbing shop. Because Glenda told us not to go off on our own I made my way back to the hostel and waited there.

We left Munich the next day and travelled back to Auckland with a short stop in Singapore. We arrived in Auckland at 11:00 at night so there were no domestic flights until the next day. Most of us were met by family but Glenda, Sam, Christoph and I all had to stay the night and fly out the next day.

The next day I arrived in Wellington and Mum, Dad and Tessa were waiting for me. I was Home.

Photos:

1. Peanut on his first Qualifier
2. Josh on his first Qualifier
3. Sam on his second Qualifier

Friday 12 August

We had a rest day and went climbing gear shopping. I bought a pair of 5.10 Arrowheads and some of the others spent almost all their money.

After lunch we took two trains and a tram to Nymphenburg Palace and I took lots of photos.

That night Daniel and I did the video diary.

Saturday 13 August

During our first two days climbing we took it easy because of jet lag, but were back to training hard now.

Sunday 14 August

Because it was Sunday almost all the shops were closed and the gym opened late. After hunting around for some time we found a bread shop and had sandwiches for lunch.

Monday 15 August

This was a public holiday so the shops were still closed. Training today was all about getting the boom (German slang for pump).

Photos:

1. Nymphenburg Palace.
2. Josh, Aiyana, Tayla and Alex outside Nymphenburg Palace.
3 to 5 Alex, Aiyana and Kaze training at the gym.

Munich Day 1 & 2

Wednesday 10 August

When we got to Munich we caught a train to our accommodation and had breakfast there. We couldn't check in to our rooms until 2:00 so we went for a walk and played hacky. After lunch we went to the climbing gym and climbed for a while. The climbing gym was massive. It had two indoor, NZ-climbing-gym-sized rooms and an outdoor wall. There was a boulder room downstairs with set problems and another one up stairs with campus boards and other training stuff. That day, though, we just climbed in the first room.

Thursday 11 August

On the way to the way to the climbing gym we went to an old church and some of us went up to the top of a bell tower and took photos of the view.

Photos

1. View of Marienplatz from bell tower.
2. Peanut, Tayla, Aiyana and Alex in the bell tower.
3. The bell tower.
4. The team at Marienplatz.

Christchurch to Munich

On Tuesday 9 August I left Christchurch, via Singapore on Singapore Airlines, for Munich, Germany, along with the New Zealand Youth Climbing Team. The members of the team were:

Adults

Ken: Coach
Glenda: Manager
Ari: Manager

Junior Male

Daniel

Youth A Male

Christoph
Josiah, JJ (me)
Sam

Youth B Male

Kaze
Josh
Adam, Peanut

Youth B Female

Alex
Tayla
Aiyana

After training in Munich for a just over a week, we would head to Imst, Austria, to compete in the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championship.

After saying good bye too our parents we went though security and boarded our flight.

On the first flight I watched five movies: Kunfu Panda 2, Source Code, Thor, Kunfu panda and Hanna.

At Singapore airport we had a five hour stopover before our next flight and I sent an email back home.

On the second flight I had three seats all to myself! I slept for most of the flight and only watched one movie: Red Riding Hood.



Photo: from left to right top to bottom: Ken, Ari, me, Tayla, Alex, Aiyana, Christoph, Sam, Daniel, Kaze, Peanut, Josh, Glenda.

National Championship - The Roxx, Christchurch

On Friday 5 August, Mum and I flew down to Christchurch to compete in the National Champs. On Tuesday 9 August I will be leaving NZ from Christchurch and flying to Europe to compete in the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championship in Imst, Austria. You can follow the team's progress on our video blog.

Sat 6 Aug: Comp Day 1

My Youth A first qualifier wasn't too hard and I topped out along with two others.

I found it hard to find a good sequence on the speed routes. Daniel Krippner and I have been consistently in the top two for Open Speed all year but this time I was coming third, Daniel fourth, and Masters competitor Rich Morgan was coming first. In Youth A I did better and was coming first.

In the Open qualification, I was close to topping the first climb, topped the second one and was second going into the final.

In isolation I could guess by the cheering that the guy before me had topped out. When I got to the end of the roof, I slipped off a big hold after making a difficult clip. The climber after me topped out and I came third.

Sun 7 Aug: Comp Day 2

On my Youth A second qualifier, I fell off on a big move and was third going into the final. On the final, I came second.

The Speed finals were on different routes to the qualifiers but the Open Male results stayed the same. In the Youth A I was Speed Champ.


Written by Josiah; posted by Lisia.

IFSC Oceania Series - Round 2, Bayside Rock, Melbourne

On Friday 29 July Dad and I flew across the Tasman to compete in round 2 of the Oceania Series. Once we were in Melbourne, we had a long journey, consisting of two buses and a train, to our accommodation in Carrum Downs. The NZ climbers who had gone over compete were:

Jorgia Oliver (YDF)
Alex Jones (YBF, OF)
Aiyana Grigsby (YBF, OF)
Matthew Sutherland (YBM)
Charlotte McConnochie (YAF, OF)
Josiah "JJ" Jacobsen-Grocott (me, YAM, OM)
Christoph Riedel (YAM, OM)
Geoff Jacobsen (Dad, Masters Male)

Sat 30 Jul: Comp day 1

Youth A First Qualifier

My first climb was easy and all but one of the ten climbers in my grade topped out.

Youth A Second Qualifier

This route was harder than the first. I topped out along with Christoph and one Aussie.

Open First Qualifier

The open climbs were much harder than the youth ones and this climb had a big dyno to a jug in it. I managed to get both hands on the jug but couldn't hold the swing. After that climb I was coming sixth equal with a lot of other people.

Open Second Qualifier

The climb started by climbing up a rope dangling from the bottom of a massive stalactite! The route crossed over from the stalactite and traversed left for a bit without footholds. It then went up onto a roof and after that onto a 45.

The climb highlighted my lack of bicep power, but I made it onto the 45. At the end of the qualification round I came tenth, two places and about two holds from making the final.

Speed Qualifiers

I got second in both Youth A and Open.

Sun 31 Jul: Comp day two

Youth A Final

My final went up a slightly overhanging wall, across a roof, and down the huge stalactite from the open climb. The climb finished by clipping the clip at the bottom of the stalactite.

By the second clip the climb felt hard. I persevered and made it onto roof.

When I came down I was told that I was coming first and taken to room where potential first equal competitors stayed in case of a super-final. Two climbers later I was told that I had won and allowed to leave.

Speed Finals

I came first in Youth A and second in Open.

The Kiwi results for the comp were:

Youth D Female

1st Jorgia Oliver

Youth B Female

1st Alex Jones
2nd Aiyana Grigsby

Youth B Male

5th= Matthew Sutherland

Youth A Female

4th Charlotte McConnochie

Youth A Male

1st Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott
6th Christoph Riedel

Open Female

7th Alex Jones
11th Aiyana Grigsby
16th Charlotte McConnochie

Open Male

10th Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott
12th Christoph Riedel

Masters Male

2nd Geoff Jacobsen

Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 4 / IFSC Oceania Series - Round 1, Extreme Edge, Auckland

On Friday 8 July Mum and I flew up to Auckland in order to compete in round 4 of the National Cup Series. This comp was doubling as the first round of the Oceania Series, so some Ausies had come over to compete as well.

Sat 9 Jul, Comp day 1

Youth A First Qualifier

The first part of this climb went up to a roof and wasn't easy, but I managed to do the moves. The climb then traversed the roof with feet on a side wall. I fell off trying to pull up over the lip. I came third on this climb.

Speed Qualifiers

The routes were quite steep for speed climbs. I didn't do very well the first time round and was coming third in Youth A, but I upped game and got first in Open.

Open First Qualifier

This route went up a vertical wall with a hard start, on to a roof, and finished on a vertical head wall. The first bit wasn't as hard as I thought and I made it across the roof, but I was too pumped to clip the last clip on the roof. I came eighth equal.

Open Second Qualifier

The climb started on a 45 degree wall, went onto a nearly vertical face, and finished on another 45. The first 45 had lots of jugs. There were a couple of slopers on the next bit, but I stayed low and they weren't too bad. The last part was very hard. I was too pumped to clip the second to last draw and fell off going for the second to last hold. I came fourth equal on this climb and was sixth going into the final.

Open Final

This route went up a 45 degree wall and then on to a vertical head wall with an arête. Everyone fell off on the same move, going to a big yellow sloper on the head wall. Three of us got a minus on the sloper, three of us got a plus off the previous hold, and a couple of us didn't manage to move on. I was in the second group and came sixth on countback.

After the final there was prize giving and I came first in the Open grade in the Climbing NZ National Cup Series!

Sun 10 Jul, Comp day 2

Youth A Second Qualifier

This climb was on the same wall as the Open second qualifier and had a side wall for the second half. I got a couple of no-hands rests at the top and topped out. At the end of the qualification round I was coming third.

Youth A Final

The route followed roughly the same line as the Open first qualifier. I mucked around on a hard move down low and got pumped. I made it to the last hold on the roof and fell off trying to clip a clip in the middle of the roof. In the end I came third.

Speed Finals

I came second in Youth A and first in Open with a few very close finishes.

Prize giving was very long because people got medals or certificates for Climbing NZ National Cup Event 4, IFSC Oceania Series Event 1, and Climbing NZ National Cup Series. In the Series I came second in Youth A Lead, first in Youth A Speed, and second in Open Speed.

Thor's Hammer

On Wednesday 15 June, Mum and I went out to Turakirae. After warming up I went over to Martini Roof to try the extension to Loki the Trickster. It was cold and all the slopers felt really good. After one go at the start I managed send the problem, but nobody was around to see me. I went over to Mum and asked her to video me. After a rest I did the problem again. I decided to call it Thor's Hammer. Here is the video.

Thor's Hammer (V10) from Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott on Vimeo.

Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 3, The Rock House, Mt Maunganui

On Friday 10 June, Dad and I drove up to Mt Maunganui to compete in the third round of the National Cup series at The Rock House. I would be competing in the Youth A Male and the Open Male, and Dad would be competing in Masters.

Sat 11 Jun: comp day 1

Youth A First Qualifier

This climb went up a vertical wall, on to a roof, and then on to a hard to describe tree feature where it topped out. I fell off on a hard throw on the tree and a couple of climbers stuck that move so I came third.

Speed Qualifiers

I came third in Open and second in Youth A.

At this comp the Opens was made more interesting by the Youth B competitors who were going to the World Youth Champs being allowed to compete in Opens as well. They wouldn't affect the series scores but they could win medals and take up final positions.

Open First Qualifier

I did OK on this route. I did a big throw part way up to avoid using a poor pocket and everyone after me did the same thing. I fell off on the second-to-last-hold and came third equal with three other climbers.

Open Second Qualifier

This climb finished on the tree feature at the same place as my first qualifier. The climb was my style with lots of heelhooks at the top and I topped out.

At the end of the Qualification round I was coming second behind a Youth B competitor.

Open Final

This climb roughly followed the same route as the Open first qualifier and it had a big dyno low down which everyone got past. I got about half way across the roof and fell trying to stick a jug. The guy after me got a little bit further than me and won the comp, so I came second.

Sun 12 Jun: comp day 2

Youth A Second Qualifier

This climb went up a slab and onto a roof. I mucked around on the roof, got pumped, and fell off on the last hold. The competitors who bet me on the first qualifier stuck the last hold and one of them managed to clip the last draw.

At the end of the qualification round I was coming third.

Youth A Final

This climb was very long. After the start there was a no-hands rest. From there it went on to the roof past a couple of volumes and carried on to the end of the roof. I stuffed up the hand sequence on the volumes but managed to carry on and fell going to a pocket. The climber who was winning got to the same place as me and won on count back, so I came second.

Speed Finals

I won Youth A and came second in Open.

Mon 13 Jun: Froggatt Edge

The day after the competition, Dad and I climbed at Froggatt. Neither of us did much. I warmed up on Jim Bulger (20, onsight) and had a couple of goes at Burn (28). Burn is a variant of a 27 I did last year called Automatic Dour and I think I could send it next trip.

Loki the Trickster

On Sunday 29 May, I went out to the Bronx with Mum and Dad.

After warming up I saw Ivan Vostinar working on a new project and decided to try the climb too. The climb was on Martini roof. It started as for Brassneck (V8), threw to a sloper followed by a hard (for me) toe hook move, and finished along Vision Thing (V7).

Ivan could do the first two moves but fell off on the third. I found a heel hook that made moves after the toe hook not too hard. We made progress; Ivan got all the way to the crux of Vision Thing clean, and I did all the start moves, and sent Vision Thing. Ivan decided he would try do the problem with an earlier and easier exit up Tricky (V5). He got close a few times, but didn't send. I finally managed to do the first moves clean and sent the problem, exiting up Tricky.

Ivan and I think the problem is about V9. I decided to name the climb Loki the Trickster, thinking the extension, finishing along Vision Thing, could be named after another Norse god.

NZ Team Trials and Froggatt Edge

Mon 9 May: Trials

We were split into two groups, boys and girls. Us boys worked on one route and then performed on that route and the girls did the same on another route. Then we swapped routes and had a flash attempt. I did all right on the first route and well on the second route.

A week later we received an email stating that I had made the team :).

Tue 10 May: Froggatt

Mum and I planned to go and climb at Waipapa, but when we got there a sign said the track was closed so we went to Froggatt and climbed there instead. I was tired after the comp and trials so I did easier climbs:

Streetwise (19), onsight, warm up
Sun Strike (20), onsight
Safety Buffalo (24), second go
Terror Incognito (18), onsight, warm down

Mum had a good day and she did these climbs:

E-Grade Get a Real Grading System (15)
Shane in the Red Balloon (18), onsight
Streetwise (19), flash
Bonne Anne (16), onsight, warm down

Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 2, The Wall, Rotorua

On Friday 6 May, Mum and I drove up to Rotorua. During the weekend, we would be competing in the second round of the National Cup Series. The day after I would attend the NZ team trials and then on Tuesday we would climb at Froggatt Edge. Wiz, one of the guys who came first with me at the last comp, broke his thumb after that comp so he wasn't competing.

Sat 7 May: comp day 1

Mum had to get up earlier than me because she was judging the younger competitors. I didn't have to be at the climbing gym until 10:00 so I got up later.

Youth A First Qualifier

This climb went up a gradually steepening wall onto a roof and had lots of pinches. I fell off on a throw from a pinch. I got the next hold and my feet came off. I hung there for a second before I fell. As I fell my right leg swung through the rope and I got rope burn.

The guy after me found an better sequence and topped out. Every one after me who got high enough used that sequence but only one other guy from my grade got that far.

Speed Qualification, Open and Junior

I came first in the Youth A and second in Open.

Open First Qualifier

This climb went up left of my first one and I topped out along with three other climbers.

Open Second Qualifier

I was first up for the second comp running. I did all right and came off about two thirds up the climb. At the end of the qualification round I was coming fourth.

Open Final

The open final went up a gradually steepening wall to a roof and then over the roof onto the head wall. I got past the roof and fell off going for an undercling crimp. I hit the side of the hold with my middle finger and held on for about a second before falling. Only one guy stuck the crimp and a couple of others threw for it but didn't hit it so in the end I came second.

Mum was coming first out of three in the Masters category after doing really well on her first qualifier.

Sun 8 May

Youth A Second Qualifier

This climb went up a vertical wall with the Youth D first qualifier on the wall to the right. I got past a hard move half way up and got a bridge by putting my foot on the Youth D climb. While I was resting I decided to go up the Youth D climb and come back to top out. This worked and I topped out.

The route setters weren't very happy about me using the Youth D holds and taped them out for the Juniors who were doing the route next. The Juniors, who I'd overheard planning to use the Youth D route, weren't very happy with me either. No one else in my grade did the hard move half way up, And I ended up coming first in the qualification round.

Youth A Final

My final went up a mildly overhanging wall onto the roof and then around the corner and up to top of the wall. I got past the roof and fell off going for a blue sidepull. The guy before me climbed really well and got to the second to last hold so I came second.

Mum came second in the Masters as well.

Speed Finals, Open and Junior

I came first in Youth A and second in Open.

Wanaka Outdoor Climbing: Part 2

Thu 7 Apr

Dad and I warmed up on a cool slab climb and then I tried Onion again and, after a few goes at the start, I fell off on the crux move. I found an easier sequence and then came down and rested for a bit. When I next did the start I managed to keep going and send.

After that we went to an area called Sunnyside and I onsighted some climbs:

Sisters of Mercy (22)
Head on (24)
Creepy Crawler (23)

Dad did Sisters of Mercy second go and did all the moves on Creepy Crawler.

Fri 8 Apr

It was much more sunny than the previous days and we went to Sunnyside again. We warmed up on Mum's on the Run (20) and Dad tried Creepy Crawler but it was too hot and sunny for him to send. Because of the poor conditions we decided to go climb somewhere less sunny. We went to Riverside and I tried Inshallah (25) and sent the climb second go. I then tried Lollapalooza (26) and, after a long struggle, I made it to the top clean and onsighted it. This is the hardest onsight I have done and I was very pleased.

In the evening we packed and the next day we caught a couple of flights back to Wellington.

Photos:

1. Me resting before I send Onion
2. Me working out what to climb at Sunnyside
3. Riverside
4. Me ready to onsight Head on at Sunnyside
5. Me at the top of Lollapalooza

Wanaka Outdoor Climbing: Part 1

Mon 4 Apr

Dad and I went to Roadside Attraction and we warmed up on Short Cut to Exposure, a 45m 17. I then onsighted Up Your Scud (23) and set up a top rope so I could try Onion (29). On my first attempt at Onion I spent ages working on the start before skipping out the hard move and trying the rest of the climb, which turned out not to be as hard. On my second go I managed to do the start and then got up to the crux at the top.

Tue 5 Apr: Rest Day

Wed 6 Apr: My Birthday

We warmed up on I Need a Pie (21). After a few goes I managed to get up to the crux clean on Onion, but I ripped the tip on my left hand pointer finger, which was tender from Monday, on a sharp hold at the crux so we had to tape it up when I came down. After falling off again on my next attempt I tried using the sharp hold with my back three fingers and when I came off my middle finger was bleeding! After we taped that finger up as well I found an easier sequence which didn't use the sharp hold. Dad sent Up Your Scud and I had another go at Onion but I was too tired to do the hard start.

Photos:

1. Roadside Attraction
2. Me by our rental car getting ready to go climbing

Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 1, Base Camp Wanaka, Wanaka

On Friday 1 April Dad and I left Wellington on a climbing trip to Wanaka. We would be competing in round 1 of the National Cup Series. I would be in the Youth A Male grade and Dad would be doing Masters, and both of us were doing Opens as well. After the comp we would stay in Wanaka for a few days and do some outdoor climbing.

Sat 2 Apr: comp day 1

We got up at 8:00am, had breakfast and drove to the climbing gym. There were six people in my grade including me, and Dad was the only one in the Masters.

Youth A First Qualifier

My first climb went up an Arête and was quite technical and delicate but I managed to top out, without too much difficulty, along with two other people.

Speed Qualification, Open and Junior

The speed routes were very narrow and the one on the left was quite hard, the Youth D competitors fell off on that route. I got the fastest time in both Open and Youth A :).

Open First Qualifier

My first Open climb went up on to the right hand side of the roof and the last move was a dyno off a bad crimp to handle. I got a no hands rest before the roof but it didn't help much as I wasn't pumped. I got to the dyno but didn't hit the loop. At the end of the first round I was coming fourth equal with one other competitor.

Open Second Qualifier

My second Open climb went up onto the left side of the roof.I was first up and I fell off going to the second hold on the roof.

At the end of the Qualification round I was coming fifth and Dad came ninth.

Open Final

Our final route went up onto the roof, traversed right bit on to a 45° wall, traversed the 45° wall and then went back left across the roof and topped out. I fell off just before the climb back onto the roof. The climber before me topped and only one guy after me did better than me so I ended up coming third. I was pretty pleased with that result.


Sun 3 Apr: comp day 2

Youth A Second Qualifier

This climb went up onto the far right side of the roof and the two guys who topped our first qualifier topped this route along with me. At the end of the qualification round I was coming first equal with two other competitors.

Youth A Final

My final route roughly followed the same line as the Open second qualifier. I fell off on a hard throw to a sidepull on roof. The other guys who topped our qualifiers fell off at the same point so we all came first equal for the comp.

Speed Finals

I came first in Youth A, and second in Open.

Baring Head Rock Hop

On Saturday 26 February I went to round 2 of the NBS at Baring Head. As it happened I was the only Junior (under 16) competitor at the comp but that didn't stop me having a good day. I warmed up by doing a couple of V5s and then tried A Show of Strength (the first V8 in NZ, a climb I sent the previous weekend) but I didn't have much luck. I went back to the area where I warmed up and, after many attempts, sent a different V8 (Das Fuer). I did a V6 traverse and I did Sand and the Vaseline (V7). I then went over to Split Apple and did Split Apple One-Handed Dyno (V6). After that I tried different problems without much success and did another couple of V5s. Not long before 3pm when climbing finished, I finally did a V6 Dyno I'd been trying for ages.

At the end of the day I had a score of 500 points. I made a mistake when I added up my score and gave myself 600 points but I got it sorted out before the winners were announced and the spot prizes handed out.

Central North Island Climbing Trip: Part 3: 6-9 Feb

Day 6

I was pretty tied after the NBS the day before so I had a day of easy climbing. I warmed up on Bother (20, Flash) and then onsighted Zoomers (20). I flashed Opel (23), which was a bit hard for a day of easy climbing, and did some easier climbs.

Day 7: rest day

Day 8

I warmed up by putting the draws back on Louder and sent the climb two goes later. I then onsighted Mister Daddy Long Legs (22). Dad and Mum tried Opel and Dad managed to send. Mum also did Bother.

Day 9

We packed up and left Bryce's in the morning. On the way home we stopped at Mangaokewa and did some climbing. I tried Model of a Modern Major General (25/26) but the top holds were really dirty so I gave up. I then tried Hot Harissa (25) and sent the climb next go. Dad did Moonshine (23) and I warmed down by onsighting Yellow Snow (22). After that we left and went home.

Central North Island Climbing Trip: Part 2: 4-5 Feb

Day 4: Rest day

We went up to Hamilton to go supermarket shopping and watched a movie.

Day 5: NBS Waitomo

We got up early and drove to Waitomo to register before briefing at 9:45. It was raining when we got there so the comp was postponed to start at 11:00.

A competitor's score in an NBS comp is determined by their top 8 problems. The score of each problem based on the Fibonacci sequence:

VE = 1
VM = 2
V0 = 3
V1 = 5
V2 = 8
and so on

My top 8 problems were:

V7 - problem 10 Greek Gods (repeat, extremely soft V7 which everyone does)
V6 - Oh Lord (repeat)
V6 - Swing and a Miss
V6 - Got Dirt
V5 - Down Load
V5 - problem 10 Totem Area (repeat)
V5 - Reservoir Dogs
V5 - Roasted Addiction

I had a score of 390 points. As well as the problems above I did Echo Psycosis (V4) and got close to Wazzup (V8), a one move wonder I tried the year before as well.

I won the Junior Male category (under 16 as of 01/01/11) and won a set of Metolius 3D rock rings for coming first. Dad also won a set of Metolius portable power grips as a spot prize.

Central North Island Climbing Trip: Part 1: 1-3 Feb

Day 1

After my sister left for school camp on Tuesday the 1st, Mum, Dad and I drove up to Bryce's at Wharepapa South, and then unpacked into our unit. We stayed at Bryce's for the duration of our trip and climbed mainly at Froggatt Edge.

Day 2

We went to Froggatt and I warmed up by onsighting Lunar Leopard (21), and then did this really hard 23 called Hardon, 3rd go. After that I tried Louder (28), a climb that had been recommended to me as a soft 28.

We went back for an evening session and I tried Louder again.

Day 3

I tried Louder again and on my second go I got really close and fell off on the crux pocket near the top. After that I was too tired to send and on my next attempt I had to clean the route in case the weather was bad after the NBS comp on Saturday and we went home early.

Photos:

1 . me working out what to warm up on
2 . & 3. me on Louder

Black Out

I started working on Black Out , a V9 at Turakirae Head, about the same time as I started working on Mr Olympia. But, because I made more progress on Mr Olympia, I stopped working on Black Out, and focused on Mr Olympia instead. The day I sent Mr Olympia I tried Black Out again, but because I still couldn't do one of the hard moves I decided the problem was too hard for me. A few days before I went to Paynes I tried the problem again and found a new sequence for the move I couldn't do before, but I didn't send.

On Wednesday 26 January, Dad and I went out to Turakirae for an evening session and after many goes I finally managed to put it all together, stick the top sloper and send the climb. Black Out is my second V9 and my third V9 or higher.

Paynes Ford 2011: Part 3

Day 13 15/1

I sent Dancing on a Skewer in the morning and then tried the direct version (29), but that was too hard for me so I gave up. I then onsighted Amino Pro (24). In the afternoon we went to the main swimming hole and I tried a problem called The Acid Test. I got the problem but I thrashed around with my feet in the water near the end of the roof so I don't think it counts as a send.

Day 14 16/1

I sent Make My Day (25) second go having tried it once last year. I then tried the climb next to it, Feeling Lucky Punk (25). I onsighted Why Would You Wave To a One Armed Man Riding a Bike (25). We took friends climbing that day so I didn't do any more notable climbs but Mum did her first 22, You're Either Dead or You're Not.

Day 15

Dad and I went to Pohara and climbed on the sea cliffs. I warmed by flashing Coup de Grace (22), sent Red Tape (25) second go and warmed down with an onsight of Honor and Obey (21).

The next day we packed up in the rain and went home.

The photos are:

1 Me and Mum stretching.
2 Me, Mum and Dad on the ferry.

Paynes Ford 2011: Part 2

Day 8 10/1

Had a rest day.

Day 9 11/1

I warmed up on Electricorp Production (22), a climb I'd had a go at last year, and sent Bulga Nomics fourth go total. After that I worked on Electrocution (27).

Day 10 12/1

I sent Electrocution in the morning and then had a couple of goes at Dancing on a Skewer (28). I warmed down by onsighting Woop Woop Pull Up (22).

Day 11 13/1

I onsighted Recidivist (20) as a warm up and then worked on Dancing on a Skewer for a bit and got to the top with only one fall. After that I sent Gravity (24) second go having tried once last year. Some climbing friends from Nelson gave me lots of beta on the climb which helped a lot.

Day 12 14/1

Rest day and Dad's birthday.

The photos are:

1 Me, Mum and Dad at The Grove
2 Me during a rest day
3 Me on Electrocution
4 Me on Dancing on a Skewer

Paynes Ford 2011: Part 1

On Sunday 2 January my family and I embarked on a two week holiday in Takaka, Golden Bay. Most of our days would be spent climbing at Paynes Ford. We had gone to Paynes during the summer for the last three years and it's my favourite crag.

Day 1 3/1

I warmed up by onsighting Feeding the Rat (21) which was probably a bit hard for my first climb of the year. I then struggled on Slaprobatics (24). This is probably the dirtiest climb I have ever tried. After that I had a couple goes at African Head Charge a very pumpy 25m 26. At the end of the day I decided that, having spent the last one and a half months bouldering and doing very little route climbing, my endurance was very poor.

Day 2 4/1

I onsighted The Good the Bad and the Dread (23), worked on African Head Charge and had a go at Mea Culpa (27).

Day 3 5/1

Had a rest day.

Day 4 6/1

Had another rest day because it was raining.

Day 5 7/1

The top of African Head Charge was wet so I worked on Mea Culpa instead.

Day 6 8/1

I flashed Bury Me in a Y Shaped Coffin (21) as a warm up and spent the rest of the day working on Mea Culpa.

Day 7 9/1

After warming up I finally sent Mea Culpa and then followed it up by sending African Head Charge. I then tried Bulga Nomics, a 25 I'd tried the year before. At the end of the day I decided I had my endurance back.

The Photos are:

1 Me on African Head Charge
2&3 Me on Mea Culpa
4 The African head