Monday, July 18, 2011

Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 4 / IFSC Oceania Series - Round 1, Extreme Edge, Auckland

On Friday 8 July Mum and I flew up to Auckland in order to compete in round 4 of the National Cup Series. This comp was doubling as the first round of the Oceania Series, so some Ausies had come over to compete as well.

Sat 9 Jul, Comp day 1

Youth A First Qualifier

The first part of this climb went up to a roof and wasn't easy, but I managed to do the moves. The climb then traversed the roof with feet on a side wall. I fell off trying to pull up over the lip. I came third on this climb.

Speed Qualifiers

The routes were quite steep for speed climbs. I didn't do very well the first time round and was coming third in Youth A, but I upped game and got first in Open.

Open First Qualifier

This route went up a vertical wall with a hard start, on to a roof, and finished on a vertical head wall. The first bit wasn't as hard as I thought and I made it across the roof, but I was too pumped to clip the last clip on the roof. I came eighth equal.

Open Second Qualifier

The climb started on a 45 degree wall, went onto a nearly vertical face, and finished on another 45. The first 45 had lots of jugs. There were a couple of slopers on the next bit, but I stayed low and they weren't too bad. The last part was very hard. I was too pumped to clip the second to last draw and fell off going for the second to last hold. I came fourth equal on this climb and was sixth going into the final.

Open Final

This route went up a 45 degree wall and then on to a vertical head wall with an arĂȘte. Everyone fell off on the same move, going to a big yellow sloper on the head wall. Three of us got a minus on the sloper, three of us got a plus off the previous hold, and a couple of us didn't manage to move on. I was in the second group and came sixth on countback.

After the final there was prize giving and I came first in the Open grade in the Climbing NZ National Cup Series!

Sun 10 Jul, Comp day 2

Youth A Second Qualifier

This climb was on the same wall as the Open second qualifier and had a side wall for the second half. I got a couple of no-hands rests at the top and topped out. At the end of the qualification round I was coming third.

Youth A Final

The route followed roughly the same line as the Open first qualifier. I mucked around on a hard move down low and got pumped. I made it to the last hold on the roof and fell off trying to clip a clip in the middle of the roof. In the end I came third.

Speed Finals

I came second in Youth A and first in Open with a few very close finishes.

Prize giving was very long because people got medals or certificates for Climbing NZ National Cup Event 4, IFSC Oceania Series Event 1, and Climbing NZ National Cup Series. In the Series I came second in Youth A Lead, first in Youth A Speed, and second in Open Speed.