Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Turakirae Sends

Over the last two months I have been sending a lot of stuff out at the Bronx, Turakirae Head.

First up I sent John Palmer's new Bronx Cave link up, Raw Iron (V8), starting as for Pumping Iron (V9/8) and finishing on Clark boulder. A few sessions later I did the first ascent on the extension to Raw Iron, starting as for Mr Olympia (V10), and named this Raw Ruthenium (V9). Later that day I did the second ascent of Supersonic (V8). Next I did the second ascent of both Kompressor Arête (V7) and Boilerplate (V8) in the same day.

A week after I got back from my trip up north, I did second ascent of The Code of the Samurai (V9/10). The Code of the Samurai is a variation my first V11, Though the Looking Glass. Though the Looking Glass and The Code of the Samurai are both variations of Alison Wonderland (V11), and all three climbs have the same hard start but finish differently.

Two days later I finished my sending spree with the first ascent of Boilerplate Sit Start (V9).

Here is a video of me sending Raw Ruthenium, and another video of me on The Code of the Samurai and Boilerplate Sit Start.

Friday, April 27, 2012

April Climbing trip

On Saturday 7 April Mum, Dad and I left for a week long climbing up north. Our first big stop on the journey was at Ohakune, where we met up with Kristen Foley and climbed at White Falls on Mount Ruapehu. I did Krakatoa (25) and worked on The Wraith (28), and Kristen sent his long term project, Retaillack (28). Mum did a 19 and both Mum and Dad worked on Krakatoa. The sun was setting as we walked back to the car and we drove up to our accommodation at Mangakino in the dark.

Sunday 8 April

We climbed at Waipapa. I worked Hands Christian, a hard 23 slab, and sent this third go. Next I had a go at Handsome Julio (Direct) (28). After skipping out the crux and finally reaching the chains, I decided to leave my draws up and work on this the next day.

Monday 9 April

After warmimg up I had a couple of go at Handsome Julio (Direct). On my second go I managed to work out, with some help from the picture in the purchased-that-day guide book, the crux sequence. The sun was on the route so I decided I would go for the send the next day and rest for the rest of this day. Mum sent her project from our last trip, Name Game (21), and we went back to our accommodation.

Tuesday 10 April

I sent Handsome Julio (Direct) first go of the day. Next we decided to head over to Froggatt and work on Burn (28). I put the the draws up then had one redpoint go and fell off on the crux.

Wednesday 11 April

I spent the day working Burn, but kept falling off on the crux.

Thursday 12 April, rest day

Friday 13 April, last day of trip

The rest day worked and I sent Burn first go of the day. Next I did Hold on to Your Face (26) second go then tried Double Leaning Jowler (28). I felt good on Double Leaning Jowler and would have had another go, but it started to rain so we packed up and went home.


1: Krakatoa
2: Hands Christian
3: Mum on Terra Incognito (18)
4: Burn

Sunday, April 22, 2012

NBS Turakirae

On Saturtday 25 February I headed out to Turakirae Head to compete in round 3 the National Boulder Series. As soon as the comp started I headed over to Thor's Hammer (V9, FA by me) and started working on this. I was making progress, but before I could get really close it started to rain. After huddling in the Bronx cave until the rain stopped I did Sour Mash (Left) (V5) and Sour Mash (Right) (V6) which apart from the top outs were both dry. I then went around to Noir Désir (V9) and started working on this. The top, post crux, holds were still wet so I took a short break and did Game On (V5), Speed King (V7) and Speed King's extension Pro Series (V8). After many attempts and much time I managed to do Noir Désir and could move on. I tried Brassneck, a V8 starting as for Thor's Hammer, but I was too tied to do this so I went over to Rotund boulder. Within a few attempts I had done Über Alles (V8) and Über Rotund (V7). I moved on to Sawn Off boulder and quickly did Conundrum (V8) and Sawn Off Right Variant (V7). With not much time left in the comp I tried Über Huck (V7). It took me a few goes to recall the beta, but I ticked this one off as well. The comp finished and my top eight climbs were V9, V8, V8, V8, V7, V7 V7, V7 giving me 1021 points, enough for me to win the comp. All the climbs I did I had done before, but it was nice to do so many in one day. Mum and Dad both had a good day too. Mum repeated her hardest climb to date, Game On, and Dad repeated all of his 8 hardest Bronx climbs. A week or so later when the series had ended I found out I was the winner the series. Full results are available here.

Thursday, April 19, 2012

NBS Froggatt

On Friday 17 February Mum and I left for round 2 of this year's National Bouldering Series at Froggatt Edge. Half an hour into our journey we realised we had left the boulder mats behind! Since we had barely started the journey we went back home to collect them and added an hour to our trip. After a long car ride up to Froggatt we set up camp at the school camping ground and went to bed early.

Saturday 18 February, day of the comp

After registering and receiving our topos we waited around for half an hour before the competition started. For most of the day I climbed with Wiz, Josh, Peanut, Isaac and Kaze, all guys from my age group at the indoor comps. We warmed up in Animal Biscuit Valley and I sent a V4, V5 and a V6 second go. After struggling on Power On (V7) for a while, I moved on to Toilet Block, sending another V5 along the way. At Toilet Block I flashed two V6's and a V5, as well as redpointing Double Trouble (V6). We then moved on to Riverside and worked on Duck Fat 2.0 (V9 in the comp, but felt like V8/7 to me) and after a lot of goes I managed to send this. The others thought I went off route but later I talked to Liam, who did the first ascent, and he thought my sequence was fine. Next we did Kiwi Kiwi Attack, a V6 dyno to a sharp jug. I needed tape to send. The others moved on but I stayed until the horn blew and time was up.

At the end of the day I came second in the Expert Male category with a score of 576 points comprised of my top eight problems: a V9 (233 points), five V6's (55 points each) and two V5's (34 points each).

Sunday 19 February, route climbing at Froggatt

I worked on Burn (28) but I was too tired from the day before and kept falling off on the crux. Mum had a good day though, flashing Monsterpiece Theatre (20).

Monday 20 February, Waipapa

I felt too tired to climb well at Froggatt so Mum and I decided to check out Waipapa. At the crag we met Bryce and Jamie, who had both put up a lot of new climbs there recently, and they showed us around. Mum did the third ascent of a 17 that Bryce had bolted that day, and I sent a couple a 26's: Utopia (third go, third ascent) and Yoda (second go, second ascent).

After climbing we hopped in the car and made the long journey home.