Saturday, April 16, 2011

Wanaka Outdoor Climbing: Part 2

Thu 7 Apr

Dad and I warmed up on a cool slab climb and then I tried Onion again and, after a few goes at the start, I fell off on the crux move. I found an easier sequence and then came down and rested for a bit. When I next did the start I managed to keep going and send.

After that we went to an area called Sunnyside and I onsighted some climbs:

Sisters of Mercy (22)
Head on (24)
Creepy Crawler (23)

Dad did Sisters of Mercy second go and did all the moves on Creepy Crawler.

Fri 8 Apr

It was much more sunny than the previous days and we went to Sunnyside again. We warmed up on Mum's on the Run (20) and Dad tried Creepy Crawler but it was too hot and sunny for him to send. Because of the poor conditions we decided to go climb somewhere less sunny. We went to Riverside and I tried Inshallah (25) and sent the climb second go. I then tried Lollapalooza (26) and, after a long struggle, I made it to the top clean and onsighted it. This is the hardest onsight I have done and I was very pleased.

In the evening we packed and the next day we caught a couple of flights back to Wellington.


1. Me resting before I send Onion
2. Me working out what to climb at Sunnyside
3. Riverside
4. Me ready to onsight Head on at Sunnyside
5. Me at the top of Lollapalooza

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Wanaka Outdoor Climbing: Part 1

Mon 4 Apr

Dad and I went to Roadside Attraction and we warmed up on Short Cut to Exposure, a 45m 17. I then onsighted Up Your Scud (23) and set up a top rope so I could try Onion (29). On my first attempt at Onion I spent ages working on the start before skipping out the hard move and trying the rest of the climb, which turned out not to be as hard. On my second go I managed to do the start and then got up to the crux at the top.

Tue 5 Apr: Rest Day

Wed 6 Apr: My Birthday

We warmed up on I Need a Pie (21). After a few goes I managed to get up to the crux clean on Onion, but I ripped the tip on my left hand pointer finger, which was tender from Monday, on a sharp hold at the crux so we had to tape it up when I came down. After falling off again on my next attempt I tried using the sharp hold with my back three fingers and when I came off my middle finger was bleeding! After we taped that finger up as well I found an easier sequence which didn't use the sharp hold. Dad sent Up Your Scud and I had another go at Onion but I was too tired to do the hard start.


1. Roadside Attraction
2. Me by our rental car getting ready to go climbing

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 1, Base Camp Wanaka, Wanaka

On Friday 1 April Dad and I left Wellington on a climbing trip to Wanaka. We would be competing in round 1 of the National Cup Series. I would be in the Youth A Male grade and Dad would be doing Masters, and both of us were doing Opens as well. After the comp we would stay in Wanaka for a few days and do some outdoor climbing.

Sat 2 Apr: comp day 1

We got up at 8:00am, had breakfast and drove to the climbing gym. There were six people in my grade including me, and Dad was the only one in the Masters.

Youth A First Qualifier

My first climb went up an ArĂȘte and was quite technical and delicate but I managed to top out, without too much difficulty, along with two other people.

Speed Qualification, Open and Junior

The speed routes were very narrow and the one on the left was quite hard, the Youth D competitors fell off on that route. I got the fastest time in both Open and Youth A :).

Open First Qualifier

My first Open climb went up on to the right hand side of the roof and the last move was a dyno off a bad crimp to handle. I got a no hands rest before the roof but it didn't help much as I wasn't pumped. I got to the dyno but didn't hit the loop. At the end of the first round I was coming fourth equal with one other competitor.

Open Second Qualifier

My second Open climb went up onto the left side of the roof.I was first up and I fell off going to the second hold on the roof.

At the end of the Qualification round I was coming fifth and Dad came ninth.

Open Final

Our final route went up onto the roof, traversed right bit on to a 45° wall, traversed the 45° wall and then went back left across the roof and topped out. I fell off just before the climb back onto the roof. The climber before me topped and only one guy after me did better than me so I ended up coming third. I was pretty pleased with that result.

Sun 3 Apr: comp day 2

Youth A Second Qualifier

This climb went up onto the far right side of the roof and the two guys who topped our first qualifier topped this route along with me. At the end of the qualification round I was coming first equal with two other competitors.

Youth A Final

My final route roughly followed the same line as the Open second qualifier. I fell off on a hard throw to a sidepull on roof. The other guys who topped our qualifiers fell off at the same point so we all came first equal for the comp.

Speed Finals

I came first in Youth A, and second in Open.