Paynes Ford 2011: Part 1

On Sunday 2 January my family and I embarked on a two week holiday in Takaka, Golden Bay. Most of our days would be spent climbing at Paynes Ford. We had gone to Paynes during the summer for the last three years and it's my favourite crag.

Day 1 3/1

I warmed up by onsighting Feeding the Rat (21) which was probably a bit hard for my first climb of the year. I then struggled on Slaprobatics (24). This is probably the dirtiest climb I have ever tried. After that I had a couple goes at African Head Charge a very pumpy 25m 26. At the end of the day I decided that, having spent the last one and a half months bouldering and doing very little route climbing, my endurance was very poor.

Day 2 4/1

I onsighted The Good the Bad and the Dread (23), worked on African Head Charge and had a go at Mea Culpa (27).

Day 3 5/1

Had a rest day.

Day 4 6/1

Had another rest day because it was raining.

Day 5 7/1

The top of African Head Charge was wet so I worked on Mea Culpa instead.

Day 6 8/1

I flashed Bury Me in a Y Shaped Coffin (21) as a warm up and spent the rest of the day working on Mea Culpa.

Day 7 9/1

After warming up I finally sent Mea Culpa and then followed it up by sending African Head Charge. I then tried Bulga Nomics, a 25 I'd tried the year before. At the end of the day I decided I had my endurance back.

The Photos are:

1 Me on African Head Charge
2&3 Me on Mea Culpa
4 The African head