On Sunday 29 May, I went out to the Bronx with Mum and Dad.
After warming up I saw Ivan Vostinar working on a new project and decided to try the climb too. The climb was on Martini roof. It started as for Brassneck (V8), threw to a sloper followed by a hard (for me) toe hook move, and finished along Vision Thing (V7).
Ivan could do the first two moves but fell off on the third. I found a heel hook that made moves after the toe hook not too hard. We made progress; Ivan got all the way to the crux of Vision Thing clean, and I did all the start moves, and sent Vision Thing. Ivan decided he would try do the problem with an earlier and easier exit up Tricky (V5). He got close a few times, but didn't send. I finally managed to do the first moves clean and sent the problem, exiting up Tricky.
Ivan and I think the problem is about V9. I decided to name the climb Loki the Trickster, thinking the extension, finishing along Vision Thing, could be named after another Norse god.
Nice one JJG. Found an easier sequence on move 3, which eliminates some difficulty, probably dropping Loki to V8. Extension seems tricky, I get pumped by the time I get to the match at the end of Vision Thing. Shame about Ivan's chipped hold...JP
ReplyDeleteI didn't find the 3rd move that hard. The crux for me was getting into, and doing the moves of, Tricky. Loki and Thor are probably easier than I first thought. I have marked them both down a grade on 8a.
ReplyDeletegood for you
ReplyDelete