On Friday 29 July Dad and I flew across the Tasman to compete in round 2 of the Oceania Series. Once we were in Melbourne, we had a long journey, consisting of two buses and a train, to our accommodation in Carrum Downs. The NZ climbers who had gone over compete were:
Jorgia Oliver (YDF)
Alex Jones (YBF, OF)
Aiyana Grigsby (YBF, OF)
Matthew Sutherland (YBM)
Charlotte McConnochie (YAF, OF)
Josiah "JJ" Jacobsen-Grocott (me, YAM, OM)
Christoph Riedel (YAM, OM)
Geoff Jacobsen (Dad, Masters Male)
Sat 30 Jul: Comp day 1
Youth A First Qualifier
My first climb was easy and all but one of the ten climbers in my grade topped out.
Youth A Second Qualifier
This route was harder than the first. I topped out along with Christoph and one Aussie.
Open First Qualifier
The open climbs were much harder than the youth ones and this climb had a big dyno to a jug in it. I managed to get both hands on the jug but couldn't hold the swing. After that climb I was coming sixth equal with a lot of other people.
Open Second Qualifier
The climb started by climbing up a rope dangling from the bottom of a massive stalactite! The route crossed over from the stalactite and traversed left for a bit without footholds. It then went up onto a roof and after that onto a 45.
The climb highlighted my lack of bicep power, but I made it onto the 45. At the end of the qualification round I came tenth, two places and about two holds from making the final.
Speed Qualifiers
I got second in both Youth A and Open.
Sun 31 Jul: Comp day two
Youth A Final
My final went up a slightly overhanging wall, across a roof, and down the huge stalactite from the open climb. The climb finished by clipping the clip at the bottom of the stalactite.
By the second clip the climb felt hard. I persevered and made it onto roof.
When I came down I was told that I was coming first and taken to room where potential first equal competitors stayed in case of a super-final. Two climbers later I was told that I had won and allowed to leave.
Speed Finals
I came first in Youth A and second in Open.
The Kiwi results for the comp were:
Youth D Female
1st Jorgia Oliver
Youth B Female
1st Alex Jones
2nd Aiyana Grigsby
Youth B Male
5th= Matthew Sutherland
Youth A Female
4th Charlotte McConnochie
Youth A Male
1st Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott
6th Christoph Riedel
Open Female
7th Alex Jones
11th Aiyana Grigsby
16th Charlotte McConnochie
Open Male
10th Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott
12th Christoph Riedel
Masters Male
2nd Geoff Jacobsen
Friday, August 5, 2011
Monday, July 18, 2011
Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 4 / IFSC Oceania Series - Round 1, Extreme Edge, Auckland
On Friday 8 July Mum and I flew up to Auckland in order to compete in round 4 of the National Cup Series. This comp was doubling as the first round of the Oceania Series, so some Ausies had come over to compete as well.
Sat 9 Jul, Comp day 1
Youth A First Qualifier
The first part of this climb went up to a roof and wasn't easy, but I managed to do the moves. The climb then traversed the roof with feet on a side wall. I fell off trying to pull up over the lip. I came third on this climb.
Speed Qualifiers
The routes were quite steep for speed climbs. I didn't do very well the first time round and was coming third in Youth A, but I upped game and got first in Open.
Open First Qualifier
This route went up a vertical wall with a hard start, on to a roof, and finished on a vertical head wall. The first bit wasn't as hard as I thought and I made it across the roof, but I was too pumped to clip the last clip on the roof. I came eighth equal.
Open Second Qualifier
The climb started on a 45 degree wall, went onto a nearly vertical face, and finished on another 45. The first 45 had lots of jugs. There were a couple of slopers on the next bit, but I stayed low and they weren't too bad. The last part was very hard. I was too pumped to clip the second to last draw and fell off going for the second to last hold. I came fourth equal on this climb and was sixth going into the final.
Open Final
This route went up a 45 degree wall and then on to a vertical head wall with an arête. Everyone fell off on the same move, going to a big yellow sloper on the head wall. Three of us got a minus on the sloper, three of us got a plus off the previous hold, and a couple of us didn't manage to move on. I was in the second group and came sixth on countback.
After the final there was prize giving and I came first in the Open grade in the Climbing NZ National Cup Series!
Sun 10 Jul, Comp day 2
Youth A Second Qualifier
This climb was on the same wall as the Open second qualifier and had a side wall for the second half. I got a couple of no-hands rests at the top and topped out. At the end of the qualification round I was coming third.
Youth A Final
The route followed roughly the same line as the Open first qualifier. I mucked around on a hard move down low and got pumped. I made it to the last hold on the roof and fell off trying to clip a clip in the middle of the roof. In the end I came third.
Speed Finals
I came second in Youth A and first in Open with a few very close finishes.
Prize giving was very long because people got medals or certificates for Climbing NZ National Cup Event 4, IFSC Oceania Series Event 1, and Climbing NZ National Cup Series. In the Series I came second in Youth A Lead, first in Youth A Speed, and second in Open Speed.
Sat 9 Jul, Comp day 1
Youth A First Qualifier
The first part of this climb went up to a roof and wasn't easy, but I managed to do the moves. The climb then traversed the roof with feet on a side wall. I fell off trying to pull up over the lip. I came third on this climb.
Speed Qualifiers
The routes were quite steep for speed climbs. I didn't do very well the first time round and was coming third in Youth A, but I upped game and got first in Open.
Open First Qualifier
This route went up a vertical wall with a hard start, on to a roof, and finished on a vertical head wall. The first bit wasn't as hard as I thought and I made it across the roof, but I was too pumped to clip the last clip on the roof. I came eighth equal.
Open Second Qualifier
The climb started on a 45 degree wall, went onto a nearly vertical face, and finished on another 45. The first 45 had lots of jugs. There were a couple of slopers on the next bit, but I stayed low and they weren't too bad. The last part was very hard. I was too pumped to clip the second to last draw and fell off going for the second to last hold. I came fourth equal on this climb and was sixth going into the final.
Open Final
This route went up a 45 degree wall and then on to a vertical head wall with an arête. Everyone fell off on the same move, going to a big yellow sloper on the head wall. Three of us got a minus on the sloper, three of us got a plus off the previous hold, and a couple of us didn't manage to move on. I was in the second group and came sixth on countback.
After the final there was prize giving and I came first in the Open grade in the Climbing NZ National Cup Series!
Sun 10 Jul, Comp day 2
Youth A Second Qualifier
This climb was on the same wall as the Open second qualifier and had a side wall for the second half. I got a couple of no-hands rests at the top and topped out. At the end of the qualification round I was coming third.
Youth A Final
The route followed roughly the same line as the Open first qualifier. I mucked around on a hard move down low and got pumped. I made it to the last hold on the roof and fell off trying to clip a clip in the middle of the roof. In the end I came third.
Speed Finals
I came second in Youth A and first in Open with a few very close finishes.
Prize giving was very long because people got medals or certificates for Climbing NZ National Cup Event 4, IFSC Oceania Series Event 1, and Climbing NZ National Cup Series. In the Series I came second in Youth A Lead, first in Youth A Speed, and second in Open Speed.
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
Thor's Hammer
On Wednesday 15 June, Mum and I went out to Turakirae. After warming up I went over to Martini Roof to try the extension to Loki the Trickster. It was cold and all the slopers felt really good. After one go at the start I managed send the problem, but nobody was around to see me. I went over to Mum and asked her to video me. After a rest I did the problem again. I decided to call it Thor's Hammer. Here is the video.
Friday, June 17, 2011
Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 3, The Rock House, Mt Maunganui
On Friday 10 June, Dad and I drove up to Mt Maunganui to compete in the third round of the National Cup series at The Rock House. I would be competing in the Youth A Male and the Open Male, and Dad would be competing in Masters.
Sat 11 Jun: comp day 1
Youth A First Qualifier
This climb went up a vertical wall, on to a roof, and then on to a hard to describe tree feature where it topped out. I fell off on a hard throw on the tree and a couple of climbers stuck that move so I came third.
Speed Qualifiers
I came third in Open and second in Youth A.
At this comp the Opens was made more interesting by the Youth B competitors who were going to the World Youth Champs being allowed to compete in Opens as well. They wouldn't affect the series scores but they could win medals and take up final positions.
Open First Qualifier
I did OK on this route. I did a big throw part way up to avoid using a poor pocket and everyone after me did the same thing. I fell off on the second-to-last-hold and came third equal with three other climbers.
Open Second Qualifier
This climb finished on the tree feature at the same place as my first qualifier. The climb was my style with lots of heelhooks at the top and I topped out.
At the end of the Qualification round I was coming second behind a Youth B competitor.
Open Final
This climb roughly followed the same route as the Open first qualifier and it had a big dyno low down which everyone got past. I got about half way across the roof and fell trying to stick a jug. The guy after me got a little bit further than me and won the comp, so I came second.
Sun 12 Jun: comp day 2
Youth A Second Qualifier
This climb went up a slab and onto a roof. I mucked around on the roof, got pumped, and fell off on the last hold. The competitors who bet me on the first qualifier stuck the last hold and one of them managed to clip the last draw.
At the end of the qualification round I was coming third.
Youth A Final
This climb was very long. After the start there was a no-hands rest. From there it went on to the roof past a couple of volumes and carried on to the end of the roof. I stuffed up the hand sequence on the volumes but managed to carry on and fell going to a pocket. The climber who was winning got to the same place as me and won on count back, so I came second.
Speed Finals
I won Youth A and came second in Open.
Mon 13 Jun: Froggatt Edge
The day after the competition, Dad and I climbed at Froggatt. Neither of us did much. I warmed up on Jim Bulger (20, onsight) and had a couple of goes at Burn (28). Burn is a variant of a 27 I did last year called Automatic Dour and I think I could send it next trip.
Sat 11 Jun: comp day 1
Youth A First Qualifier
This climb went up a vertical wall, on to a roof, and then on to a hard to describe tree feature where it topped out. I fell off on a hard throw on the tree and a couple of climbers stuck that move so I came third.
Speed Qualifiers
I came third in Open and second in Youth A.
At this comp the Opens was made more interesting by the Youth B competitors who were going to the World Youth Champs being allowed to compete in Opens as well. They wouldn't affect the series scores but they could win medals and take up final positions.
Open First Qualifier
I did OK on this route. I did a big throw part way up to avoid using a poor pocket and everyone after me did the same thing. I fell off on the second-to-last-hold and came third equal with three other climbers.
Open Second Qualifier
This climb finished on the tree feature at the same place as my first qualifier. The climb was my style with lots of heelhooks at the top and I topped out.
At the end of the Qualification round I was coming second behind a Youth B competitor.
Open Final
This climb roughly followed the same route as the Open first qualifier and it had a big dyno low down which everyone got past. I got about half way across the roof and fell trying to stick a jug. The guy after me got a little bit further than me and won the comp, so I came second.
Sun 12 Jun: comp day 2
Youth A Second Qualifier
This climb went up a slab and onto a roof. I mucked around on the roof, got pumped, and fell off on the last hold. The competitors who bet me on the first qualifier stuck the last hold and one of them managed to clip the last draw.
At the end of the qualification round I was coming third.
Youth A Final
This climb was very long. After the start there was a no-hands rest. From there it went on to the roof past a couple of volumes and carried on to the end of the roof. I stuffed up the hand sequence on the volumes but managed to carry on and fell going to a pocket. The climber who was winning got to the same place as me and won on count back, so I came second.
Speed Finals
I won Youth A and came second in Open.
Mon 13 Jun: Froggatt Edge
The day after the competition, Dad and I climbed at Froggatt. Neither of us did much. I warmed up on Jim Bulger (20, onsight) and had a couple of goes at Burn (28). Burn is a variant of a 27 I did last year called Automatic Dour and I think I could send it next trip.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Loki the Trickster
On Sunday 29 May, I went out to the Bronx with Mum and Dad.
After warming up I saw Ivan Vostinar working on a new project and decided to try the climb too. The climb was on Martini roof. It started as for Brassneck (V8), threw to a sloper followed by a hard (for me) toe hook move, and finished along Vision Thing (V7).
Ivan could do the first two moves but fell off on the third. I found a heel hook that made moves after the toe hook not too hard. We made progress; Ivan got all the way to the crux of Vision Thing clean, and I did all the start moves, and sent Vision Thing. Ivan decided he would try do the problem with an earlier and easier exit up Tricky (V5). He got close a few times, but didn't send. I finally managed to do the first moves clean and sent the problem, exiting up Tricky.
Ivan and I think the problem is about V9. I decided to name the climb Loki the Trickster, thinking the extension, finishing along Vision Thing, could be named after another Norse god.
After warming up I saw Ivan Vostinar working on a new project and decided to try the climb too. The climb was on Martini roof. It started as for Brassneck (V8), threw to a sloper followed by a hard (for me) toe hook move, and finished along Vision Thing (V7).
Ivan could do the first two moves but fell off on the third. I found a heel hook that made moves after the toe hook not too hard. We made progress; Ivan got all the way to the crux of Vision Thing clean, and I did all the start moves, and sent Vision Thing. Ivan decided he would try do the problem with an earlier and easier exit up Tricky (V5). He got close a few times, but didn't send. I finally managed to do the first moves clean and sent the problem, exiting up Tricky.
Ivan and I think the problem is about V9. I decided to name the climb Loki the Trickster, thinking the extension, finishing along Vision Thing, could be named after another Norse god.
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
NZ Team Trials and Froggatt Edge
Mon 9 May: Trials
We were split into two groups, boys and girls. Us boys worked on one route and then performed on that route and the girls did the same on another route. Then we swapped routes and had a flash attempt. I did all right on the first route and well on the second route.
A week later we received an email stating that I had made the team :).
Tue 10 May: Froggatt
Mum and I planned to go and climb at Waipapa, but when we got there a sign said the track was closed so we went to Froggatt and climbed there instead. I was tired after the comp and trials so I did easier climbs:
Streetwise (19), onsight, warm up
Sun Strike (20), onsight
Safety Buffalo (24), second go
Terror Incognito (18), onsight, warm down
Mum had a good day and she did these climbs:
E-Grade Get a Real Grading System (15)
Shane in the Red Balloon (18), onsight
Streetwise (19), flash
Bonne Anne (16), onsight, warm down
We were split into two groups, boys and girls. Us boys worked on one route and then performed on that route and the girls did the same on another route. Then we swapped routes and had a flash attempt. I did all right on the first route and well on the second route.
A week later we received an email stating that I had made the team :).
Tue 10 May: Froggatt
Mum and I planned to go and climb at Waipapa, but when we got there a sign said the track was closed so we went to Froggatt and climbed there instead. I was tired after the comp and trials so I did easier climbs:
Streetwise (19), onsight, warm up
Sun Strike (20), onsight
Safety Buffalo (24), second go
Terror Incognito (18), onsight, warm down
Mum had a good day and she did these climbs:
E-Grade Get a Real Grading System (15)
Shane in the Red Balloon (18), onsight
Streetwise (19), flash
Bonne Anne (16), onsight, warm down
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 2, The Wall, Rotorua
On Friday 6 May, Mum and I drove up to Rotorua. During the weekend, we would be competing in the second round of the National Cup Series. The day after I would attend the NZ team trials and then on Tuesday we would climb at Froggatt Edge. Wiz, one of the guys who came first with me at the last comp, broke his thumb after that comp so he wasn't competing.
Sat 7 May: comp day 1
Mum had to get up earlier than me because she was judging the younger competitors. I didn't have to be at the climbing gym until 10:00 so I got up later.
Youth A First Qualifier
This climb went up a gradually steepening wall onto a roof and had lots of pinches. I fell off on a throw from a pinch. I got the next hold and my feet came off. I hung there for a second before I fell. As I fell my right leg swung through the rope and I got rope burn.
The guy after me found an better sequence and topped out. Every one after me who got high enough used that sequence but only one other guy from my grade got that far.
Speed Qualification, Open and Junior
I came first in the Youth A and second in Open.
Open First Qualifier
This climb went up left of my first one and I topped out along with three other climbers.
Open Second Qualifier
I was first up for the second comp running. I did all right and came off about two thirds up the climb. At the end of the qualification round I was coming fourth.
Open Final
The open final went up a gradually steepening wall to a roof and then over the roof onto the head wall. I got past the roof and fell off going for an undercling crimp. I hit the side of the hold with my middle finger and held on for about a second before falling. Only one guy stuck the crimp and a couple of others threw for it but didn't hit it so in the end I came second.
Mum was coming first out of three in the Masters category after doing really well on her first qualifier.
Sun 8 May
Youth A Second Qualifier
This climb went up a vertical wall with the Youth D first qualifier on the wall to the right. I got past a hard move half way up and got a bridge by putting my foot on the Youth D climb. While I was resting I decided to go up the Youth D climb and come back to top out. This worked and I topped out.
The route setters weren't very happy about me using the Youth D holds and taped them out for the Juniors who were doing the route next. The Juniors, who I'd overheard planning to use the Youth D route, weren't very happy with me either. No one else in my grade did the hard move half way up, And I ended up coming first in the qualification round.
Youth A Final
My final went up a mildly overhanging wall onto the roof and then around the corner and up to top of the wall. I got past the roof and fell off going for a blue sidepull. The guy before me climbed really well and got to the second to last hold so I came second.
Mum came second in the Masters as well.
Speed Finals, Open and Junior
I came first in Youth A and second in Open.
Sat 7 May: comp day 1
Mum had to get up earlier than me because she was judging the younger competitors. I didn't have to be at the climbing gym until 10:00 so I got up later.
Youth A First Qualifier
This climb went up a gradually steepening wall onto a roof and had lots of pinches. I fell off on a throw from a pinch. I got the next hold and my feet came off. I hung there for a second before I fell. As I fell my right leg swung through the rope and I got rope burn.
The guy after me found an better sequence and topped out. Every one after me who got high enough used that sequence but only one other guy from my grade got that far.
Speed Qualification, Open and Junior
I came first in the Youth A and second in Open.
Open First Qualifier
This climb went up left of my first one and I topped out along with three other climbers.
Open Second Qualifier
I was first up for the second comp running. I did all right and came off about two thirds up the climb. At the end of the qualification round I was coming fourth.
Open Final
The open final went up a gradually steepening wall to a roof and then over the roof onto the head wall. I got past the roof and fell off going for an undercling crimp. I hit the side of the hold with my middle finger and held on for about a second before falling. Only one guy stuck the crimp and a couple of others threw for it but didn't hit it so in the end I came second.
Mum was coming first out of three in the Masters category after doing really well on her first qualifier.
Sun 8 May
Youth A Second Qualifier
This climb went up a vertical wall with the Youth D first qualifier on the wall to the right. I got past a hard move half way up and got a bridge by putting my foot on the Youth D climb. While I was resting I decided to go up the Youth D climb and come back to top out. This worked and I topped out.
The route setters weren't very happy about me using the Youth D holds and taped them out for the Juniors who were doing the route next. The Juniors, who I'd overheard planning to use the Youth D route, weren't very happy with me either. No one else in my grade did the hard move half way up, And I ended up coming first in the qualification round.
Youth A Final
My final went up a mildly overhanging wall onto the roof and then around the corner and up to top of the wall. I got past the roof and fell off going for a blue sidepull. The guy before me climbed really well and got to the second to last hold so I came second.
Mum came second in the Masters as well.
Speed Finals, Open and Junior
I came first in Youth A and second in Open.
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