On Friday 29 July Dad and I flew across the Tasman to compete in round 2 of the Oceania Series. Once we were in Melbourne, we had a long journey, consisting of two buses and a train, to our accommodation in Carrum Downs. The NZ climbers who had gone over compete were:
Jorgia Oliver (YDF)
Alex Jones (YBF, OF)
Aiyana Grigsby (YBF, OF)
Matthew Sutherland (YBM)
Charlotte McConnochie (YAF, OF)
Josiah "JJ" Jacobsen-Grocott (me, YAM, OM)
Christoph Riedel (YAM, OM)
Geoff Jacobsen (Dad, Masters Male)
Sat 30 Jul: Comp day 1
Youth A First Qualifier
My first climb was easy and all but one of the ten climbers in my grade topped out.
Youth A Second Qualifier
This route was harder than the first. I topped out along with Christoph and one Aussie.
Open First Qualifier
The open climbs were much harder than the youth ones and this climb had a big dyno to a jug in it. I managed to get both hands on the jug but couldn't hold the swing. After that climb I was coming sixth equal with a lot of other people.
Open Second Qualifier
The climb started by climbing up a rope dangling from the bottom of a massive stalactite! The route crossed over from the stalactite and traversed left for a bit without footholds. It then went up onto a roof and after that onto a 45.
The climb highlighted my lack of bicep power, but I made it onto the 45. At the end of the qualification round I came tenth, two places and about two holds from making the final.
Speed Qualifiers
I got second in both Youth A and Open.
Sun 31 Jul: Comp day two
Youth A Final
My final went up a slightly overhanging wall, across a roof, and down the huge stalactite from the open climb. The climb finished by clipping the clip at the bottom of the stalactite.
By the second clip the climb felt hard. I persevered and made it onto roof.
When I came down I was told that I was coming first and taken to room where potential first equal competitors stayed in case of a super-final. Two climbers later I was told that I had won and allowed to leave.
Speed Finals
I came first in Youth A and second in Open.
The Kiwi results for the comp were:
Youth D Female
1st Jorgia Oliver
Youth B Female
1st Alex Jones
2nd Aiyana Grigsby
Youth B Male
5th= Matthew Sutherland
Youth A Female
4th Charlotte McConnochie
Youth A Male
1st Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott
6th Christoph Riedel
Open Female
7th Alex Jones
11th Aiyana Grigsby
16th Charlotte McConnochie
Open Male
10th Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott
12th Christoph Riedel
Masters Male
2nd Geoff Jacobsen
Showing posts with label Oceania Series. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Oceania Series. Show all posts
Friday, August 5, 2011
Monday, July 18, 2011
Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 4 / IFSC Oceania Series - Round 1, Extreme Edge, Auckland
On Friday 8 July Mum and I flew up to Auckland in order to compete in round 4 of the National Cup Series. This comp was doubling as the first round of the Oceania Series, so some Ausies had come over to compete as well.
Sat 9 Jul, Comp day 1
Youth A First Qualifier
The first part of this climb went up to a roof and wasn't easy, but I managed to do the moves. The climb then traversed the roof with feet on a side wall. I fell off trying to pull up over the lip. I came third on this climb.
Speed Qualifiers
The routes were quite steep for speed climbs. I didn't do very well the first time round and was coming third in Youth A, but I upped game and got first in Open.
Open First Qualifier
This route went up a vertical wall with a hard start, on to a roof, and finished on a vertical head wall. The first bit wasn't as hard as I thought and I made it across the roof, but I was too pumped to clip the last clip on the roof. I came eighth equal.
Open Second Qualifier
The climb started on a 45 degree wall, went onto a nearly vertical face, and finished on another 45. The first 45 had lots of jugs. There were a couple of slopers on the next bit, but I stayed low and they weren't too bad. The last part was very hard. I was too pumped to clip the second to last draw and fell off going for the second to last hold. I came fourth equal on this climb and was sixth going into the final.
Open Final
This route went up a 45 degree wall and then on to a vertical head wall with an arête. Everyone fell off on the same move, going to a big yellow sloper on the head wall. Three of us got a minus on the sloper, three of us got a plus off the previous hold, and a couple of us didn't manage to move on. I was in the second group and came sixth on countback.
After the final there was prize giving and I came first in the Open grade in the Climbing NZ National Cup Series!
Sun 10 Jul, Comp day 2
Youth A Second Qualifier
This climb was on the same wall as the Open second qualifier and had a side wall for the second half. I got a couple of no-hands rests at the top and topped out. At the end of the qualification round I was coming third.
Youth A Final
The route followed roughly the same line as the Open first qualifier. I mucked around on a hard move down low and got pumped. I made it to the last hold on the roof and fell off trying to clip a clip in the middle of the roof. In the end I came third.
Speed Finals
I came second in Youth A and first in Open with a few very close finishes.
Prize giving was very long because people got medals or certificates for Climbing NZ National Cup Event 4, IFSC Oceania Series Event 1, and Climbing NZ National Cup Series. In the Series I came second in Youth A Lead, first in Youth A Speed, and second in Open Speed.
Sat 9 Jul, Comp day 1
Youth A First Qualifier
The first part of this climb went up to a roof and wasn't easy, but I managed to do the moves. The climb then traversed the roof with feet on a side wall. I fell off trying to pull up over the lip. I came third on this climb.
Speed Qualifiers
The routes were quite steep for speed climbs. I didn't do very well the first time round and was coming third in Youth A, but I upped game and got first in Open.
Open First Qualifier
This route went up a vertical wall with a hard start, on to a roof, and finished on a vertical head wall. The first bit wasn't as hard as I thought and I made it across the roof, but I was too pumped to clip the last clip on the roof. I came eighth equal.
Open Second Qualifier
The climb started on a 45 degree wall, went onto a nearly vertical face, and finished on another 45. The first 45 had lots of jugs. There were a couple of slopers on the next bit, but I stayed low and they weren't too bad. The last part was very hard. I was too pumped to clip the second to last draw and fell off going for the second to last hold. I came fourth equal on this climb and was sixth going into the final.
Open Final
This route went up a 45 degree wall and then on to a vertical head wall with an arête. Everyone fell off on the same move, going to a big yellow sloper on the head wall. Three of us got a minus on the sloper, three of us got a plus off the previous hold, and a couple of us didn't manage to move on. I was in the second group and came sixth on countback.
After the final there was prize giving and I came first in the Open grade in the Climbing NZ National Cup Series!
Sun 10 Jul, Comp day 2
Youth A Second Qualifier
This climb was on the same wall as the Open second qualifier and had a side wall for the second half. I got a couple of no-hands rests at the top and topped out. At the end of the qualification round I was coming third.
Youth A Final
The route followed roughly the same line as the Open first qualifier. I mucked around on a hard move down low and got pumped. I made it to the last hold on the roof and fell off trying to clip a clip in the middle of the roof. In the end I came third.
Speed Finals
I came second in Youth A and first in Open with a few very close finishes.
Prize giving was very long because people got medals or certificates for Climbing NZ National Cup Event 4, IFSC Oceania Series Event 1, and Climbing NZ National Cup Series. In the Series I came second in Youth A Lead, first in Youth A Speed, and second in Open Speed.
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