Friday, August 5, 2011

IFSC Oceania Series - Round 2, Bayside Rock, Melbourne

On Friday 29 July Dad and I flew across the Tasman to compete in round 2 of the Oceania Series. Once we were in Melbourne, we had a long journey, consisting of two buses and a train, to our accommodation in Carrum Downs. The NZ climbers who had gone over compete were:

Jorgia Oliver (YDF)
Alex Jones (YBF, OF)
Aiyana Grigsby (YBF, OF)
Matthew Sutherland (YBM)
Charlotte McConnochie (YAF, OF)
Josiah "JJ" Jacobsen-Grocott (me, YAM, OM)
Christoph Riedel (YAM, OM)
Geoff Jacobsen (Dad, Masters Male)

Sat 30 Jul: Comp day 1

Youth A First Qualifier

My first climb was easy and all but one of the ten climbers in my grade topped out.

Youth A Second Qualifier

This route was harder than the first. I topped out along with Christoph and one Aussie.

Open First Qualifier

The open climbs were much harder than the youth ones and this climb had a big dyno to a jug in it. I managed to get both hands on the jug but couldn't hold the swing. After that climb I was coming sixth equal with a lot of other people.

Open Second Qualifier

The climb started by climbing up a rope dangling from the bottom of a massive stalactite! The route crossed over from the stalactite and traversed left for a bit without footholds. It then went up onto a roof and after that onto a 45.

The climb highlighted my lack of bicep power, but I made it onto the 45. At the end of the qualification round I came tenth, two places and about two holds from making the final.

Speed Qualifiers

I got second in both Youth A and Open.

Sun 31 Jul: Comp day two

Youth A Final

My final went up a slightly overhanging wall, across a roof, and down the huge stalactite from the open climb. The climb finished by clipping the clip at the bottom of the stalactite.

By the second clip the climb felt hard. I persevered and made it onto roof.

When I came down I was told that I was coming first and taken to room where potential first equal competitors stayed in case of a super-final. Two climbers later I was told that I had won and allowed to leave.

Speed Finals

I came first in Youth A and second in Open.

The Kiwi results for the comp were:

Youth D Female

1st Jorgia Oliver

Youth B Female

1st Alex Jones
2nd Aiyana Grigsby

Youth B Male

5th= Matthew Sutherland

Youth A Female

4th Charlotte McConnochie

Youth A Male

1st Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott
6th Christoph Riedel

Open Female

7th Alex Jones
11th Aiyana Grigsby
16th Charlotte McConnochie

Open Male

10th Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott
12th Christoph Riedel

Masters Male

2nd Geoff Jacobsen

No comments:

Post a Comment