My Six Week South Island Climbing Trip

Recently I came back from a six week climbing trip in the South Island. Most of our days were spent in the Darran mountains in Fiordland, but we climbed at other places as well. My sister is on a three month exchange trip to Canada, so it was just me, Mum and Dad. On 14 December we caught the ferry and were on our way.

Our first stop on the way down was Mt Cook. We spent the night and did a couple of nice walks with good views. On the second day the lack of climbing started getting to me though, and on the way back on our second walk I did a few easy boulder problems in my sneakers.

Next up we had four days in Wanaka. We went to Al Cap and I sent my project from my last trip, Tuffer (27). Al Cap never sees the sun, and back in April My hands would be frozen by half way up and I couldn't feel my fingertips. This time conditions were good and anywhere in the sun was sweltering. I tried Continuous Play (27) as well but left that a project for our return trip. The climbs at Al Cap are long and pumpy and don't suit me, but I felt better than last time and I was able to recover at the rests.

Next up, we climbed at Diamond Slab area, and I tried to onsight some stuff. I fell off two 26's but did easier climbs first go.

We headed south to Milford and arrived at Homer Hut. There was a good crew staying there including Derek Thatcher, Zac Orme (my old coach) and Rachel Musgrave. It was great to meet these guys and they showed us around and gave me lots of good route recommendations and beta.

All of our climbing that first stint was at big Babylon and Little Babylon. Little Babylon is cool with lots of hard pumpy and bouldery climbs. I left a project there, Xerxes (30). Big Babylon has two different styles of climbing. The right hand wall is slightly overhanging with very little contour change. It has lots of sharp crimps, some underclings and a few heinous slopers. I did Fuel (29) on this wall. The left wall is very high and has lots bulges. There are lots of jugs and no-hands rests but getting between them can be hard. On Christmas Day, Dad and I did an awesome three pitch 24 called Project Aqua. I had lots of fun and onsighted each pitch. Getting down wasn't easy though and Dad had to swing me in to a belay. I wasn't put off and two days later we hopped on a four pitch 25, PSI, that went right to the top of the wall. It was 78m high and I almost fell off on the hardest pitch, but I onsighted this one too. After having trouble swinging me into another belay Dad suggested another method of going down: as I came down I would clip draws into the bolts and clip the rope in above me so I would stay close to the wall. This worked better and we made it down.

We left Milford to avoid the rain and drove to Queenstown. It rained for the fist two days of the new year and when the rain cleared there was snow on the mountains all around us. We did some climbing at Wye Creek which was freezing. Despite the cold I managed to onsight Projection (26) and did a soft 28, Boss Combo, second go.

We went back to Milford but this time Dad and I had gumboots. The track up to the Babylon crags is long, steep, wet and muddy. It involves climbing over stuff, and gumboots were an improvement. We got the idea from Derek and the others who all wore them.

This time back we were staying at Milford Lodge which has showers and a nice lounge with power. To keep costs down though we were sleeping in the tent.

After a few days, heavy rain came in. Because the rain wasn't going to last and we had enough food, we decided to wait it out. Normally the mountains around Cleddau Valley are steep granite slabs with some snow on the more rounded tops and some thin water falls falling into the valley. When it's raining heavily the whole valley transforms. On the first rainy day we went for a drive to look at the waterfalls. The valley was full of them. They were running over moss slops and some even over trees. We stopped by the slip before Babylon. It was amazing. The small water fall left of Big Babylon had turned into a massive torrent. Farther up the valley we went for a walk to the Chasm. Not the Chasm crag, but a spot in the river where the water runs through a chasm. It was cool the first time we went on a sunny day, but this time it was spectacular. The water rushed through and there was lots of spray.

It rained so hard that night that we got moved to a free room at the lodge in the middle of the night. This was because the tent could have flooded.

I didn't get Xerxes that trip. After the rain I had a cold which lasted a few days. We had an easy day at Chasm and went to Little Babylon the next day. The last time I'd been there I'd tried a climb called Hercules (28/29). The climb is really cool, just big moves on big holds. After a warm up I hopped straight on it with no rest as it was a cold day, and sent it first go of the day.

That day we drove to Te Anau to stock up on food and stuff.

When we next went to Little Babylon I put my draws back on Xerxes by aidclimbing it as a warm up. I was determined to get it this time back and planed to keep working on it until I sent. I had a go before we went back to Homer Hut, where we were staying again this time. I did the bouldery first crux confidently, just like the last five plus times. I got to the second crux, and with the intermediate I had worked out I grabbed the pocket. I put my feet up and powered to the gaston slot. I yelled loudly and stuck the hold. The yell was louder than necessary, but I hadn't stuck the move before so I put the effort in. The next moves were pumpy and I made it to the third crux. I put my heel up and pulled past the big sloper. I had only one hard move left, a throw to a three finger chink out right. I set my feet up and went for it. My hand went around the hold. I gripped it, but not hard enough. My hand uncurled off the hold, but I caught myself back on the previous holds. I was pumped and I knew the move would be harder this time. I did not want to fall off at this point, having come so close. Those thoughts went through my head in the two seconds before I went for the move again. My hand went around the hold again. I gripped hard. I let out a tremendous yell and put all my effort in. I stuck the move. The next two moves felt hard too and I struggled with the last clip, but I made it. I was really pleased I did it, because the climb felt right at my limit.

I removed the bottom draws and put them on No Country For Old Men (29), an easer variation which met up at the second crux. I worked the start of this, then we went back to the hut. The next day, armed with bata from Derek, I sent the climb after a few goes. I felt fresher after the second crux than I had on Xerxes so I knew I would do it, but that throw still felt hard. That evening Tom Hoyle (aka Gomez), Derek and I tried a new route on the Pebble boulder next to Homer Hut. The climb has been dubbed The Russian Route and is grade 26 in my opinion. I did the route second go, just after Derek. It is very technical and bouldery and and the crux is not letting your feet pop.

Derek and Tom left two days later. James Morris, Zac, Rach and others had left earlier. I hopped on Cyrus the Great (30) that day and had fun working out all the moves. That evening Jon Seddon from Wanaka arrived and replaced Derek as warden of the Hut.

The next day Dad and I went to the Chasm and climbed there. We made our way up to Chill Out ledge in two pitches, carrying backpacks the whole time. The first part had via ferrata rungs up to the belay. Dad says I went the hard way up the next pitch and should have taken a different route to Chill Out ledge. I had a good time at Chill Out ledge doing a couple of hard onsights. The first one was Bus t' Milford (26). A really fun climb with a streak of pockets and then pumpy climbing on big edges. The next climb was Buster Gonad (25). This one had a steep juggy prow near the top with some cool no-hands rests. I missed these on the onsight but found them when got my draws back.

That evening we went back to Te Anau for our last resupply and stayed the night.

Back at Little Babylon, I worked on Cyrus fine tuning my sequence. Dad didn't get much of a go on his project, International Turkey Patrol (25), because there were so many people climbing that day. Some of them were trying Hercules and I passed on some of the beta I got from Derek and Tom.

The next day was different. Nobody else was there. I tried some new beta I got from Jon and got close to Cyrus a couple of times. Then when I was feeling unmotivated I had one last go. I pushed through the crux and made it to the rest, rested for a bit, then did the last hard move and made it to the top. My second 30 this trip. It felt easier than Xerxes to me and took less time.

Cyrus is one of the coolest routes ever. It starts with a grade 15 slab and then gets hard straight away with a V6/7 boulder problem. There are other ways, but my method through the boulder problem involved a high step with an undercling followed by a catch of a 45 degree sloping one-pad edge. I then had to pull up hard and fast to some better holds. Originally I went to an ok gaston and then caught a good pinch, but I often didn't get enough thrust to reach the pinch. Before I sent, I worked out that if I crimped the one-pad edge I could go straight to the pinch. The next hard bit involved a hard lockoff clip and then a hard twist-lock from a crimp to a poor pinch. I tried Jon's beta instead, going left to a good edge, which made the clip easier, followed by some hard undercling moves, which skip out the poor pinch. Next I reached a juggy crack, and a knee scum allowed me to clip while I was kind of upside down. A few more moves and I got to the crux. It starts with a crossover to a gaston. Then there is a smear foot to reach the first undercling in the bulge. I slapped the foot onto an edge. This is the crux because I barndoor, and the foot is hard to move. Then the climb gets easier. I traversed an undercling break and got a rest on the top right of the bulge with a knee bar or heel hook. Then there is a hard crossover from a set-back edge to a sloper/jug. Jon told me about a heel hook that made this easy. From there, it's a few jugs to the top.

After I sent Cyrus, Dad had a go at Turkey Patrol. He did his best yet, falling off at the end because he was pumped and forgot to move his foot.

The next day we planed to do Tufa Dub at big Babylon, but because of a slip the start was a wet, boltless slab, so we did other stuff instead. I was low on motivation and the only thing I sent was a 19. That evening we left the Darrans for the last time and began the journey home. The Darrans is home to the best climbing I've done and I look forward to a return trip sometime.

We had a couple of days in Wanaka. On the first day, Dad and I went to Far Horizons, a crag Jon told us about. I did two nice climbs, Komatsu (26) and Project Manager (28). On my 3rd go on Project Manager, I fell on the last move because I pushed the draw onto the top jug. I was very annoyed, but I came down and sent it next go.

The next day we went back to Al Cap. I planned to do Continuous Play, but when we got there both this and Huffer (Dad's project, the first half of Tuffer) were wet. We tried Popeye (28) instead, and I sent this fourth go and Dad did almost all the moves on toprope.

Our last climbing day was at the Cave in Christchurch. I worked on Bogus Machismo (29) most of the day and came close twice at the end but didn't send. Some other climbers were there including Vanessa who won the Masters last year in the Christchurch comp. I tried Gorilla Grip (27) and fell off right at the top on my onsight attempt. With Vanessa's beta I did it second go.

The next day we caught the ferry home and ended our six week trip. It was great to have so long to climb but I was getting tired by the end of it.

Photos:

1: Me and Mum at Mt Cook.
2: Me working on Fuel and Zac working on Katelipsis (32) on the right wall of big Babylon.
3: Babylon in the rain.
4: Going to the Juggy crack on Cyrus the Great 5: Dad working on International Turkey Patrol.

Turakirae Sends

Over the last two months I have been sending a lot of stuff out at the Bronx, Turakirae Head.

First up I sent John Palmer's new Bronx Cave link up, Raw Iron (V8), starting as for Pumping Iron (V9/8) and finishing on Clark boulder. A few sessions later I did the first ascent on the extension to Raw Iron, starting as for Mr Olympia (V10), and named this Raw Ruthenium (V9). Later that day I did the second ascent of Supersonic (V8). Next I did the second ascent of both Kompressor Arête (V7) and Boilerplate (V8) in the same day.

A week after I got back from my trip up north, I did second ascent of The Code of the Samurai (V9/10). The Code of the Samurai is a variation my first V11, Though the Looking Glass. Though the Looking Glass and The Code of the Samurai are both variations of Alison Wonderland (V11), and all three climbs have the same hard start but finish differently.

Two days later I finished my sending spree with the first ascent of Boilerplate Sit Start (V9).

Here is a video of me sending Raw Ruthenium, and another video of me on The Code of the Samurai and Boilerplate Sit Start.

April Climbing trip

On Saturday 7 April Mum, Dad and I left for a week long climbing up north. Our first big stop on the journey was at Ohakune, where we met up with Kristen Foley and climbed at White Falls on Mount Ruapehu. I did Krakatoa (25) and worked on The Wraith (28), and Kristen sent his long term project, Retaillack (28). Mum did a 19 and both Mum and Dad worked on Krakatoa. The sun was setting as we walked back to the car and we drove up to our accommodation at Mangakino in the dark.

Sunday 8 April

We climbed at Waipapa. I worked Hands Christian, a hard 23 slab, and sent this third go. Next I had a go at Handsome Julio (Direct) (28). After skipping out the crux and finally reaching the chains, I decided to leave my draws up and work on this the next day.

Monday 9 April

After warmimg up I had a couple of go at Handsome Julio (Direct). On my second go I managed to work out, with some help from the picture in the purchased-that-day guide book, the crux sequence. The sun was on the route so I decided I would go for the send the next day and rest for the rest of this day. Mum sent her project from our last trip, Name Game (21), and we went back to our accommodation.

Tuesday 10 April

I sent Handsome Julio (Direct) first go of the day. Next we decided to head over to Froggatt and work on Burn (28). I put the the draws up then had one redpoint go and fell off on the crux.

Wednesday 11 April

I spent the day working Burn, but kept falling off on the crux.

Thursday 12 April, rest day

Friday 13 April, last day of trip

The rest day worked and I sent Burn first go of the day. Next I did Hold on to Your Face (26) second go then tried Double Leaning Jowler (28). I felt good on Double Leaning Jowler and would have had another go, but it started to rain so we packed up and went home.

Photos:

1: Krakatoa
2: Hands Christian
3: Mum on Terra Incognito (18)
4: Burn

NBS Turakirae

On Saturtday 25 February I headed out to Turakirae Head to compete in round 3 the National Boulder Series. As soon as the comp started I headed over to Thor's Hammer (V9, FA by me) and started working on this. I was making progress, but before I could get really close it started to rain. After huddling in the Bronx cave until the rain stopped I did Sour Mash (Left) (V5) and Sour Mash (Right) (V6) which apart from the top outs were both dry. I then went around to Noir Désir (V9) and started working on this. The top, post crux, holds were still wet so I took a short break and did Game On (V5), Speed King (V7) and Speed King's extension Pro Series (V8). After many attempts and much time I managed to do Noir Désir and could move on. I tried Brassneck, a V8 starting as for Thor's Hammer, but I was too tied to do this so I went over to Rotund boulder. Within a few attempts I had done Über Alles (V8) and Über Rotund (V7). I moved on to Sawn Off boulder and quickly did Conundrum (V8) and Sawn Off Right Variant (V7). With not much time left in the comp I tried Über Huck (V7). It took me a few goes to recall the beta, but I ticked this one off as well. The comp finished and my top eight climbs were V9, V8, V8, V8, V7, V7 V7, V7 giving me 1021 points, enough for me to win the comp. All the climbs I did I had done before, but it was nice to do so many in one day. Mum and Dad both had a good day too. Mum repeated her hardest climb to date, Game On, and Dad repeated all of his 8 hardest Bronx climbs. A week or so later when the series had ended I found out I was the winner the series. Full results are available here.

NBS Froggatt

On Friday 17 February Mum and I left for round 2 of this year's National Bouldering Series at Froggatt Edge. Half an hour into our journey we realised we had left the boulder mats behind! Since we had barely started the journey we went back home to collect them and added an hour to our trip. After a long car ride up to Froggatt we set up camp at the school camping ground and went to bed early.

Saturday 18 February, day of the comp

After registering and receiving our topos we waited around for half an hour before the competition started. For most of the day I climbed with Wiz, Josh, Peanut, Isaac and Kaze, all guys from my age group at the indoor comps. We warmed up in Animal Biscuit Valley and I sent a V4, V5 and a V6 second go. After struggling on Power On (V7) for a while, I moved on to Toilet Block, sending another V5 along the way. At Toilet Block I flashed two V6's and a V5, as well as redpointing Double Trouble (V6). We then moved on to Riverside and worked on Duck Fat 2.0 (V9 in the comp, but felt like V8/7 to me) and after a lot of goes I managed to send this. The others thought I went off route but later I talked to Liam, who did the first ascent, and he thought my sequence was fine. Next we did Kiwi Kiwi Attack, a V6 dyno to a sharp jug. I needed tape to send. The others moved on but I stayed until the horn blew and time was up.

At the end of the day I came second in the Expert Male category with a score of 576 points comprised of my top eight problems: a V9 (233 points), five V6's (55 points each) and two V5's (34 points each).

Sunday 19 February, route climbing at Froggatt

I worked on Burn (28) but I was too tired from the day before and kept falling off on the crux. Mum had a good day though, flashing Monsterpiece Theatre (20).

Monday 20 February, Waipapa

I felt too tired to climb well at Froggatt so Mum and I decided to check out Waipapa. At the crag we met Bryce and Jamie, who had both put up a lot of new climbs there recently, and they showed us around. Mum did the third ascent of a 17 that Bryce had bolted that day, and I sent a couple a 26's: Utopia (third go, third ascent) and Yoda (second go, second ascent).

After climbing we hopped in the car and made the long journey home.

Thor's Hammer

On Wednesday 15 June, Mum and I went out to Turakirae. After warming up I went over to Martini Roof to try the extension to Loki the Trickster. It was cold and all the slopers felt really good. After one go at the start I managed send the problem, but nobody was around to see me. I went over to Mum and asked her to video me. After a rest I did the problem again. I decided to call it Thor's Hammer. Here is the video.

Thor's Hammer (V10) from Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott on Vimeo.

Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 3, The Rock House, Mt Maunganui

On Friday 10 June, Dad and I drove up to Mt Maunganui to compete in the third round of the National Cup series at The Rock House. I would be competing in the Youth A Male and the Open Male, and Dad would be competing in Masters.

Sat 11 Jun: comp day 1

Youth A First Qualifier

This climb went up a vertical wall, on to a roof, and then on to a hard to describe tree feature where it topped out. I fell off on a hard throw on the tree and a couple of climbers stuck that move so I came third.

Speed Qualifiers

I came third in Open and second in Youth A.

At this comp the Opens was made more interesting by the Youth B competitors who were going to the World Youth Champs being allowed to compete in Opens as well. They wouldn't affect the series scores but they could win medals and take up final positions.

Open First Qualifier

I did OK on this route. I did a big throw part way up to avoid using a poor pocket and everyone after me did the same thing. I fell off on the second-to-last-hold and came third equal with three other climbers.

Open Second Qualifier

This climb finished on the tree feature at the same place as my first qualifier. The climb was my style with lots of heelhooks at the top and I topped out.

At the end of the Qualification round I was coming second behind a Youth B competitor.

Open Final

This climb roughly followed the same route as the Open first qualifier and it had a big dyno low down which everyone got past. I got about half way across the roof and fell trying to stick a jug. The guy after me got a little bit further than me and won the comp, so I came second.

Sun 12 Jun: comp day 2

Youth A Second Qualifier

This climb went up a slab and onto a roof. I mucked around on the roof, got pumped, and fell off on the last hold. The competitors who bet me on the first qualifier stuck the last hold and one of them managed to clip the last draw.

At the end of the qualification round I was coming third.

Youth A Final

This climb was very long. After the start there was a no-hands rest. From there it went on to the roof past a couple of volumes and carried on to the end of the roof. I stuffed up the hand sequence on the volumes but managed to carry on and fell going to a pocket. The climber who was winning got to the same place as me and won on count back, so I came second.

Speed Finals

I won Youth A and came second in Open.

Mon 13 Jun: Froggatt Edge

The day after the competition, Dad and I climbed at Froggatt. Neither of us did much. I warmed up on Jim Bulger (20, onsight) and had a couple of goes at Burn (28). Burn is a variant of a 27 I did last year called Automatic Dour and I think I could send it next trip.

Loki the Trickster

On Sunday 29 May, I went out to the Bronx with Mum and Dad.

After warming up I saw Ivan Vostinar working on a new project and decided to try the climb too. The climb was on Martini roof. It started as for Brassneck (V8), threw to a sloper followed by a hard (for me) toe hook move, and finished along Vision Thing (V7).

Ivan could do the first two moves but fell off on the third. I found a heel hook that made moves after the toe hook not too hard. We made progress; Ivan got all the way to the crux of Vision Thing clean, and I did all the start moves, and sent Vision Thing. Ivan decided he would try do the problem with an earlier and easier exit up Tricky (V5). He got close a few times, but didn't send. I finally managed to do the first moves clean and sent the problem, exiting up Tricky.

Ivan and I think the problem is about V9. I decided to name the climb Loki the Trickster, thinking the extension, finishing along Vision Thing, could be named after another Norse god.

NZ Team Trials and Froggatt Edge

Mon 9 May: Trials

We were split into two groups, boys and girls. Us boys worked on one route and then performed on that route and the girls did the same on another route. Then we swapped routes and had a flash attempt. I did all right on the first route and well on the second route.

A week later we received an email stating that I had made the team :).

Tue 10 May: Froggatt

Mum and I planned to go and climb at Waipapa, but when we got there a sign said the track was closed so we went to Froggatt and climbed there instead. I was tired after the comp and trials so I did easier climbs:

Streetwise (19), onsight, warm up
Sun Strike (20), onsight
Safety Buffalo (24), second go
Terror Incognito (18), onsight, warm down

Mum had a good day and she did these climbs:

E-Grade Get a Real Grading System (15)
Shane in the Red Balloon (18), onsight
Streetwise (19), flash
Bonne Anne (16), onsight, warm down

Wanaka Outdoor Climbing: Part 2

Thu 7 Apr

Dad and I warmed up on a cool slab climb and then I tried Onion again and, after a few goes at the start, I fell off on the crux move. I found an easier sequence and then came down and rested for a bit. When I next did the start I managed to keep going and send.

After that we went to an area called Sunnyside and I onsighted some climbs:

Sisters of Mercy (22)
Head on (24)
Creepy Crawler (23)

Dad did Sisters of Mercy second go and did all the moves on Creepy Crawler.

Fri 8 Apr

It was much more sunny than the previous days and we went to Sunnyside again. We warmed up on Mum's on the Run (20) and Dad tried Creepy Crawler but it was too hot and sunny for him to send. Because of the poor conditions we decided to go climb somewhere less sunny. We went to Riverside and I tried Inshallah (25) and sent the climb second go. I then tried Lollapalooza (26) and, after a long struggle, I made it to the top clean and onsighted it. This is the hardest onsight I have done and I was very pleased.

In the evening we packed and the next day we caught a couple of flights back to Wellington.

Photos:

1. Me resting before I send Onion
2. Me working out what to climb at Sunnyside
3. Riverside
4. Me ready to onsight Head on at Sunnyside
5. Me at the top of Lollapalooza

Baring Head Rock Hop

On Saturday 26 February I went to round 2 of the NBS at Baring Head. As it happened I was the only Junior (under 16) competitor at the comp but that didn't stop me having a good day. I warmed up by doing a couple of V5s and then tried A Show of Strength (the first V8 in NZ, a climb I sent the previous weekend) but I didn't have much luck. I went back to the area where I warmed up and, after many attempts, sent a different V8 (Das Fuer). I did a V6 traverse and I did Sand and the Vaseline (V7). I then went over to Split Apple and did Split Apple One-Handed Dyno (V6). After that I tried different problems without much success and did another couple of V5s. Not long before 3pm when climbing finished, I finally did a V6 Dyno I'd been trying for ages.

At the end of the day I had a score of 500 points. I made a mistake when I added up my score and gave myself 600 points but I got it sorted out before the winners were announced and the spot prizes handed out.

Central North Island Climbing Trip: Part 3: 6-9 Feb

Day 6

I was pretty tied after the NBS the day before so I had a day of easy climbing. I warmed up on Bother (20, Flash) and then onsighted Zoomers (20). I flashed Opel (23), which was a bit hard for a day of easy climbing, and did some easier climbs.

Day 7: rest day

Day 8

I warmed up by putting the draws back on Louder and sent the climb two goes later. I then onsighted Mister Daddy Long Legs (22). Dad and Mum tried Opel and Dad managed to send. Mum also did Bother.

Day 9

We packed up and left Bryce's in the morning. On the way home we stopped at Mangaokewa and did some climbing. I tried Model of a Modern Major General (25/26) but the top holds were really dirty so I gave up. I then tried Hot Harissa (25) and sent the climb next go. Dad did Moonshine (23) and I warmed down by onsighting Yellow Snow (22). After that we left and went home.

Central North Island Climbing Trip: Part 2: 4-5 Feb

Day 4: Rest day

We went up to Hamilton to go supermarket shopping and watched a movie.

Day 5: NBS Waitomo

We got up early and drove to Waitomo to register before briefing at 9:45. It was raining when we got there so the comp was postponed to start at 11:00.

A competitor's score in an NBS comp is determined by their top 8 problems. The score of each problem based on the Fibonacci sequence:

VE = 1
VM = 2
V0 = 3
V1 = 5
V2 = 8
and so on

My top 8 problems were:

V7 - problem 10 Greek Gods (repeat, extremely soft V7 which everyone does)
V6 - Oh Lord (repeat)
V6 - Swing and a Miss
V6 - Got Dirt
V5 - Down Load
V5 - problem 10 Totem Area (repeat)
V5 - Reservoir Dogs
V5 - Roasted Addiction

I had a score of 390 points. As well as the problems above I did Echo Psycosis (V4) and got close to Wazzup (V8), a one move wonder I tried the year before as well.

I won the Junior Male category (under 16 as of 01/01/11) and won a set of Metolius 3D rock rings for coming first. Dad also won a set of Metolius portable power grips as a spot prize.

Central North Island Climbing Trip: Part 1: 1-3 Feb

Day 1

After my sister left for school camp on Tuesday the 1st, Mum, Dad and I drove up to Bryce's at Wharepapa South, and then unpacked into our unit. We stayed at Bryce's for the duration of our trip and climbed mainly at Froggatt Edge.

Day 2

We went to Froggatt and I warmed up by onsighting Lunar Leopard (21), and then did this really hard 23 called Hardon, 3rd go. After that I tried Louder (28), a climb that had been recommended to me as a soft 28.

We went back for an evening session and I tried Louder again.

Day 3

I tried Louder again and on my second go I got really close and fell off on the crux pocket near the top. After that I was too tired to send and on my next attempt I had to clean the route in case the weather was bad after the NBS comp on Saturday and we went home early.

Photos:

1 . me working out what to warm up on
2 . & 3. me on Louder

Black Out

I started working on Black Out , a V9 at Turakirae Head, about the same time as I started working on Mr Olympia. But, because I made more progress on Mr Olympia, I stopped working on Black Out, and focused on Mr Olympia instead. The day I sent Mr Olympia I tried Black Out again, but because I still couldn't do one of the hard moves I decided the problem was too hard for me. A few days before I went to Paynes I tried the problem again and found a new sequence for the move I couldn't do before, but I didn't send.

On Wednesday 26 January, Dad and I went out to Turakirae for an evening session and after many goes I finally managed to put it all together, stick the top sloper and send the climb. Black Out is my second V9 and my third V9 or higher.

Paynes Ford 2011: Part 3

Day 13 15/1

I sent Dancing on a Skewer in the morning and then tried the direct version (29), but that was too hard for me so I gave up. I then onsighted Amino Pro (24). In the afternoon we went to the main swimming hole and I tried a problem called The Acid Test. I got the problem but I thrashed around with my feet in the water near the end of the roof so I don't think it counts as a send.

Day 14 16/1

I sent Make My Day (25) second go having tried it once last year. I then tried the climb next to it, Feeling Lucky Punk (25). I onsighted Why Would You Wave To a One Armed Man Riding a Bike (25). We took friends climbing that day so I didn't do any more notable climbs but Mum did her first 22, You're Either Dead or You're Not.

Day 15

Dad and I went to Pohara and climbed on the sea cliffs. I warmed by flashing Coup de Grace (22), sent Red Tape (25) second go and warmed down with an onsight of Honor and Obey (21).

The next day we packed up in the rain and went home.

The photos are:

1 Me and Mum stretching.
2 Me, Mum and Dad on the ferry.

Paynes Ford 2011: Part 2

Day 8 10/1

Had a rest day.

Day 9 11/1

I warmed up on Electricorp Production (22), a climb I'd had a go at last year, and sent Bulga Nomics fourth go total. After that I worked on Electrocution (27).

Day 10 12/1

I sent Electrocution in the morning and then had a couple of goes at Dancing on a Skewer (28). I warmed down by onsighting Woop Woop Pull Up (22).

Day 11 13/1

I onsighted Recidivist (20) as a warm up and then worked on Dancing on a Skewer for a bit and got to the top with only one fall. After that I sent Gravity (24) second go having tried once last year. Some climbing friends from Nelson gave me lots of beta on the climb which helped a lot.

Day 12 14/1

Rest day and Dad's birthday.

The photos are:

1 Me, Mum and Dad at The Grove
2 Me during a rest day
3 Me on Electrocution
4 Me on Dancing on a Skewer

Paynes Ford 2011: Part 1

On Sunday 2 January my family and I embarked on a two week holiday in Takaka, Golden Bay. Most of our days would be spent climbing at Paynes Ford. We had gone to Paynes during the summer for the last three years and it's my favourite crag.

Day 1 3/1

I warmed up by onsighting Feeding the Rat (21) which was probably a bit hard for my first climb of the year. I then struggled on Slaprobatics (24). This is probably the dirtiest climb I have ever tried. After that I had a couple goes at African Head Charge a very pumpy 25m 26. At the end of the day I decided that, having spent the last one and a half months bouldering and doing very little route climbing, my endurance was very poor.

Day 2 4/1

I onsighted The Good the Bad and the Dread (23), worked on African Head Charge and had a go at Mea Culpa (27).

Day 3 5/1

Had a rest day.

Day 4 6/1

Had another rest day because it was raining.

Day 5 7/1

The top of African Head Charge was wet so I worked on Mea Culpa instead.

Day 6 8/1

I flashed Bury Me in a Y Shaped Coffin (21) as a warm up and spent the rest of the day working on Mea Culpa.

Day 7 9/1

After warming up I finally sent Mea Culpa and then followed it up by sending African Head Charge. I then tried Bulga Nomics, a 25 I'd tried the year before. At the end of the day I decided I had my endurance back.

The Photos are:

1 Me on African Head Charge
2&3 Me on Mea Culpa
4 The African head

Mr Olympia

Over the last few weeks I have been working on Mr Olympia, a V10 at the Bronx, Turakirae Head. Mr Olympia is an extension to my first V9, Pumping Iron, itself an extension to a V7, Toast. I have been going out to the Bronx twice a week and when I first started working on it I couldn't do the hard start sequence.

On Sunday 12 December I got up at 6am in order to get out to the Bronx before it got too hot. After warming up I hopped on Mr Olympia and sent the problem first go of the day. Mr Olympia is my first V10 and the first V9 or higher I have done since I did Pumping Iron in April.

Here's a video of me sending the climb:

Whanganui Bay - 7-9 November: Day 3

Tuesday 9th

Dad and I got up at 6:30 and had a one square meal bar on the way to the rock.
I warmed up by attempting to repeat Childhood's End but I took a rest on the rope half way through. I then had a go at Trilogy and fell off on an easy move just after doing a hard move where it splits from Trinity. On my next attempt I sent the climb! I was really stoked.

I offered to belay Dad but he had a sore shoulder and back so didn't feel like climbing. We went back to the campsite and had breakfast. Then we packed up and left.