Tuesday 9th
Dad and I got up at 6:30 and had a one square meal bar on the way to the rock.
I warmed up by attempting to repeat Childhood's End but I took a rest on the rope half way through. I then had a go at Trilogy and fell off on an easy move just after doing a hard move where it splits from Trinity. On my next attempt I sent the climb! I was really stoked.
I offered to belay Dad but he had a sore shoulder and back so didn't feel like climbing. We went back to the campsite and had breakfast. Then we packed up and left.
We have set this blog up to enable friends and family to follow Josiah's journeys to the Climbing World Youth Championship.
Showing posts with label Whanganui Bay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Whanganui Bay. Show all posts
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Whanganui Bay - 7-9 November: Day 2
Monday 8th
Dad and I tried to get up and get to the rock before the sun was on the rock but by the time we started walking to the rock the sun was already on the top half of Trilogy.
I warmed up by onsighting Picked the Wrong Week to Give Up Chocolate Marshmallowpuffs, grade 25, and then worked on Trilogy for a bit. Dad got all the moves on Kafunka... and then we went back to the car and had lunch.
At the campsite we met a couple of Austrians and they recognised my top I'd been given in Austria for a competition there, and we let them borrow our guide book for a bit.
In the afternoon Dad and I went back up to the rock and I worked on Trilogy and managed to get to the top with only one fall. Dad got all the moves of, and took lots of falls on, Schneiderburner, a 21 he tried last time we went to Whanganui Bay.
We planed to get up early the next day and have a One Square Meal bar on the way to the rock instead of breakfast.
Dad and I tried to get up and get to the rock before the sun was on the rock but by the time we started walking to the rock the sun was already on the top half of Trilogy.
I warmed up by onsighting Picked the Wrong Week to Give Up Chocolate Marshmallowpuffs, grade 25, and then worked on Trilogy for a bit. Dad got all the moves on Kafunka... and then we went back to the car and had lunch.
At the campsite we met a couple of Austrians and they recognised my top I'd been given in Austria for a competition there, and we let them borrow our guide book for a bit.
In the afternoon Dad and I went back up to the rock and I worked on Trilogy and managed to get to the top with only one fall. Dad got all the moves of, and took lots of falls on, Schneiderburner, a 21 he tried last time we went to Whanganui Bay.
We planed to get up early the next day and have a One Square Meal bar on the way to the rock instead of breakfast.
Wanganui Bay - 7-9 November: day 1
Sunday 7th
Dad and I had breakfast and packed the car and left at about 9am, an hour earlier than we planned. We stopped in Taihape to have lunch and made it down the road to Whanganui bay. It was about 2:30 when we arrived so we put the tent up before we went climbing.
We went up to the plateau and I warmed up by putting the draws up on Trinity, a grade 29 project of mine I'd worked on last time I went to Whanganui bay. I went for the send on my next attempt and I and got up past the crux but I fell off on a hard move near the top. I wasn't very happy and I let out a big scream of frustration as I fell and then yelled 'NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!'. I went back up and found a sequence which made the hard move not very hard at all.
I belayed Dad on Kafunkafunakfunkapteschew, grade 25. He took a big fall between the second and third clip and he and I collided.
After that I had another go at Trinity and fell off low down because my foot popped. I went up again and this time I sent it, my first ever 29.
On the way down Dad convinced me to try Trilogy, a grade 30 climb which combined the start and crux of Trinity with the hard part of Up For Grabs, a 27 to the left of Trinity. So I put the upper draws of Trinity on Trilogy.
Dad and I listened to some of a story we were listening to on the way up before we went to bed.
Dad and I had breakfast and packed the car and left at about 9am, an hour earlier than we planned. We stopped in Taihape to have lunch and made it down the road to Whanganui bay. It was about 2:30 when we arrived so we put the tent up before we went climbing.
We went up to the plateau and I warmed up by putting the draws up on Trinity, a grade 29 project of mine I'd worked on last time I went to Whanganui bay. I went for the send on my next attempt and I and got up past the crux but I fell off on a hard move near the top. I wasn't very happy and I let out a big scream of frustration as I fell and then yelled 'NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!'. I went back up and found a sequence which made the hard move not very hard at all.
I belayed Dad on Kafunkafunakfunkapteschew, grade 25. He took a big fall between the second and third clip and he and I collided.
After that I had another go at Trinity and fell off low down because my foot popped. I went up again and this time I sent it, my first ever 29.
On the way down Dad convinced me to try Trilogy, a grade 30 climb which combined the start and crux of Trinity with the hard part of Up For Grabs, a 27 to the left of Trinity. So I put the upper draws of Trinity on Trilogy.
Dad and I listened to some of a story we were listening to on the way up before we went to bed.
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