Sunday 7th
Dad and I had breakfast and packed the car and left at about 9am, an hour earlier than we planned. We stopped in Taihape to have lunch and made it down the road to Whanganui bay. It was about 2:30 when we arrived so we put the tent up before we went climbing.
We went up to the plateau and I warmed up by putting the draws up on Trinity, a grade 29 project of mine I'd worked on last time I went to Whanganui bay. I went for the send on my next attempt and I and got up past the crux but I fell off on a hard move near the top. I wasn't very happy and I let out a big scream of frustration as I fell and then yelled 'NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!'. I went back up and found a sequence which made the hard move not very hard at all.
I belayed Dad on Kafunkafunakfunkapteschew, grade 25. He took a big fall between the second and third clip and he and I collided.
After that I had another go at Trinity and fell off low down because my foot popped. I went up again and this time I sent it, my first ever 29.
On the way down Dad convinced me to try Trilogy, a grade 30 climb which combined the start and crux of Trinity with the hard part of Up For Grabs, a 27 to the left of Trinity. So I put the upper draws of Trinity on Trilogy.
Dad and I listened to some of a story we were listening to on the way up before we went to bed.
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
13-15 September
We got up early, tidyed up our cottage and left about an hour later than James said we were leaving the night before. When we were at the airport we had to wait a while before we could check our bags in through to Auckland. After we went through security we had another wait before we could board our plane.
Once we were through security at Heathrow James gave us money to buy ourselves lunch and we spent a while looking at different food places until we found a mini supermarket. When we were finished lunch we played cards with a pack of quilt shaped cards Josh had bought until we boarded our flight to Korea.
When we got to Korea we had to go through another security check before we were in the duty-free area. Once we were in the duty-free area I tried to find a lounge where I could rest but the ones I saw were for people with first-class or premium-economy tickets.
When we arived at Auckland airport we had to pick up our bags and go through customs before we could meet our families. Me, Sarah and Mark had another flight to catch so we walked to the domestic airport and I worked out that you had to cross the road before the blue and white line started so thats why I couldn't find it last time. We played cards for a bit then went through to our gates.
On the the plane one of the flight attendants gave me this sports magazine and I found an interview with Kilian Fischhuber and his partner. Kilian is the IFSC number 2 world-ranked competitor.
When I got off the plane I met Mum and Dad and they drove me home. Tessa wanted to come too but she had to go to school.
Once we were through security at Heathrow James gave us money to buy ourselves lunch and we spent a while looking at different food places until we found a mini supermarket. When we were finished lunch we played cards with a pack of quilt shaped cards Josh had bought until we boarded our flight to Korea.
When we got to Korea we had to go through another security check before we were in the duty-free area. Once we were in the duty-free area I tried to find a lounge where I could rest but the ones I saw were for people with first-class or premium-economy tickets.
When we arived at Auckland airport we had to pick up our bags and go through customs before we could meet our families. Me, Sarah and Mark had another flight to catch so we walked to the domestic airport and I worked out that you had to cross the road before the blue and white line started so thats why I couldn't find it last time. We played cards for a bit then went through to our gates.
On the the plane one of the flight attendants gave me this sports magazine and I found an interview with Kilian Fischhuber and his partner. Kilian is the IFSC number 2 world-ranked competitor.
When I got off the plane I met Mum and Dad and they drove me home. Tessa wanted to come too but she had to go to school.
Sunday 12 September
We went to the gym and watched the speed finals. I traded tops with the Equador competitor, and some of the others went into town with friends and relatives. Me and Chase went on a big walk looking for a place to put up his slackline he bought, but we didn't find anywhere. In the afternoon we all went into town and some of us put Chase's slackline up and played on that for a while then everybody met up and we had fish and chips for dinner. After dinner Speedy and her mum left for their holiday in Europe and the rest of us went on a ghosts and ghouls tour.
By time we got back to our cottages it was about 11pm and we still had packing to do. I went to bed at about midnight but some of the others stayed up drawing pictures in my book of paper. When I asked in the morning what happened to the book Jesse said they used up all the paper :)
By time we got back to our cottages it was about 11pm and we still had packing to do. I went to bed at about midnight but some of the others stayed up drawing pictures in my book of paper. When I asked in the morning what happened to the book Jesse said they used up all the paper :)
Saturday 11 September
We didn't have to get up so early, but we had to get to the gym early enough for Sarah to have plenty of time to warm up. Sarah climbed realy well and ended up coming 21st. In the evening we watched the finals. It was pretty cool to watch all the top competitors especially when Sebastian Halenke topped out. During and after the finals I arranged to trade tops with an Equador competitor the next day, and traded tops with a Japanese competitor.
Friday 10 September
We had to get up really early so we could get to gym an hour before demonstration because some of us were climbing early. I was the last New Zealander to climb and I started warming up too early. When I was on the climb I got up to the first hard move and put my heel on my right hand hold, and when I moved my right hand up to the next hold I knocked my heel off the hold and fell off.
At the end of the qualification round our results were:
Junior Male
Jesse: 46
Chase: 47
Youth A Male
Mark: 31
Youth A Female
Sarah: 24
Speedy: 35
Youth B Male
Josh: 36
Wiz: 46
Penut: 55
J.J.(me): 63
Youth B Female
Tayla: 46
Alex: 54
Sarah was the only one us to make the semi-final the next day. The top 26 make the semi-final.
In the evening we had the speed qualification. We all climbed fast but none of us made it to the next round. 16 people go to the next round and they do a knock out competition like the fifa world cup. About An hour before the speeds I cut my foot on the ground. Glenda taped it up for me and put antiseptic stuff on it and it really stung. It hurt to step on it but I don't think it had any impact on my speed time.
Our placings were:
Junior Male
Chase: 30 (18.72)
Jesse: 33 (20.86)
Youth A Male
Mark: 35 (19.56)
Youth A Female
Speedy: 25 (28.43)
Sarah: 29 (she didn't hit the buzzer hard enough both times!)
Youth B Male
Josh: 26 (20.30)
J.J.(me): 27 (20.75)
Penut: 28 (21.52)
Wiz: 33 (34.08)
Youth B Female
Tayla: 21 (33.79)
Alex: 25 (48.16)
At the end of the qualification round our results were:
Junior Male
Jesse: 46
Chase: 47
Youth A Male
Mark: 31
Youth A Female
Sarah: 24
Speedy: 35
Youth B Male
Josh: 36
Wiz: 46
Penut: 55
J.J.(me): 63
Youth B Female
Tayla: 46
Alex: 54
Sarah was the only one us to make the semi-final the next day. The top 26 make the semi-final.
In the evening we had the speed qualification. We all climbed fast but none of us made it to the next round. 16 people go to the next round and they do a knock out competition like the fifa world cup. About An hour before the speeds I cut my foot on the ground. Glenda taped it up for me and put antiseptic stuff on it and it really stung. It hurt to step on it but I don't think it had any impact on my speed time.
Our placings were:
Junior Male
Chase: 30 (18.72)
Jesse: 33 (20.86)
Youth A Male
Mark: 35 (19.56)
Youth A Female
Speedy: 25 (28.43)
Sarah: 29 (she didn't hit the buzzer hard enough both times!)
Youth B Male
Josh: 26 (20.30)
J.J.(me): 27 (20.75)
Penut: 28 (21.52)
Wiz: 33 (34.08)
Youth B Female
Tayla: 21 (33.79)
Alex: 25 (48.16)
Thursday 9 September: World Youth Champs
We got up, had breakfast and went to the climbing gym. Josh and Mark were both up first in their grade, Mark for the second year running! My first climb wasn't that good: I wrapped a hold the wrong way so I couldn't clip a clip and I fell off. At the end of the day our results were:
Junior Male
Jesse: 36
Chase: 48
Youth A Male
Mark: 33
Youth A Female
Sarah: 27
Speedy: 33
Youth B Male
Josh: 39
Penut: 45
Wiz: 46
J.J.(me): 58
Youth B Female
Tayla: 43
Alex: 45
At the end of the day James said that we climbed like we deserved to be here at the World Youth Champs, even if some of us didn't climb as well as we could have.
Junior Male
Jesse: 36
Chase: 48
Youth A Male
Mark: 33
Youth A Female
Sarah: 27
Speedy: 33
Youth B Male
Josh: 39
Penut: 45
Wiz: 46
J.J.(me): 58
Youth B Female
Tayla: 43
Alex: 45
At the end of the day James said that we climbed like we deserved to be here at the World Youth Champs, even if some of us didn't climb as well as we could have.
Wednesday 8 September
We spent most of the day playing tennis and jokgu, a Korean game that we saw in Korea which is like volleyball but played with the feet.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)