Mon 9 May: Trials
We were split into two groups, boys and girls. Us boys worked on one route and then performed on that route and the girls did the same on another route. Then we swapped routes and had a flash attempt. I did all right on the first route and well on the second route.
A week later we received an email stating that I had made the team :).
Tue 10 May: Froggatt
Mum and I planned to go and climb at Waipapa, but when we got there a sign said the track was closed so we went to Froggatt and climbed there instead. I was tired after the comp and trials so I did easier climbs:
Streetwise (19), onsight, warm up
Sun Strike (20), onsight
Safety Buffalo (24), second go
Terror Incognito (18), onsight, warm down
Mum had a good day and she did these climbs:
E-Grade Get a Real Grading System (15)
Shane in the Red Balloon (18), onsight
Streetwise (19), flash
Bonne Anne (16), onsight, warm down
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 2, The Wall, Rotorua
On Friday 6 May, Mum and I drove up to Rotorua. During the weekend, we would be competing in the second round of the National Cup Series. The day after I would attend the NZ team trials and then on Tuesday we would climb at Froggatt Edge. Wiz, one of the guys who came first with me at the last comp, broke his thumb after that comp so he wasn't competing.
Sat 7 May: comp day 1
Mum had to get up earlier than me because she was judging the younger competitors. I didn't have to be at the climbing gym until 10:00 so I got up later.
Youth A First Qualifier
This climb went up a gradually steepening wall onto a roof and had lots of pinches. I fell off on a throw from a pinch. I got the next hold and my feet came off. I hung there for a second before I fell. As I fell my right leg swung through the rope and I got rope burn.
The guy after me found an better sequence and topped out. Every one after me who got high enough used that sequence but only one other guy from my grade got that far.
Speed Qualification, Open and Junior
I came first in the Youth A and second in Open.
Open First Qualifier
This climb went up left of my first one and I topped out along with three other climbers.
Open Second Qualifier
I was first up for the second comp running. I did all right and came off about two thirds up the climb. At the end of the qualification round I was coming fourth.
Open Final
The open final went up a gradually steepening wall to a roof and then over the roof onto the head wall. I got past the roof and fell off going for an undercling crimp. I hit the side of the hold with my middle finger and held on for about a second before falling. Only one guy stuck the crimp and a couple of others threw for it but didn't hit it so in the end I came second.
Mum was coming first out of three in the Masters category after doing really well on her first qualifier.
Sun 8 May
Youth A Second Qualifier
This climb went up a vertical wall with the Youth D first qualifier on the wall to the right. I got past a hard move half way up and got a bridge by putting my foot on the Youth D climb. While I was resting I decided to go up the Youth D climb and come back to top out. This worked and I topped out.
The route setters weren't very happy about me using the Youth D holds and taped them out for the Juniors who were doing the route next. The Juniors, who I'd overheard planning to use the Youth D route, weren't very happy with me either. No one else in my grade did the hard move half way up, And I ended up coming first in the qualification round.
Youth A Final
My final went up a mildly overhanging wall onto the roof and then around the corner and up to top of the wall. I got past the roof and fell off going for a blue sidepull. The guy before me climbed really well and got to the second to last hold so I came second.
Mum came second in the Masters as well.
Speed Finals, Open and Junior
I came first in Youth A and second in Open.
Sat 7 May: comp day 1
Mum had to get up earlier than me because she was judging the younger competitors. I didn't have to be at the climbing gym until 10:00 so I got up later.
Youth A First Qualifier
This climb went up a gradually steepening wall onto a roof and had lots of pinches. I fell off on a throw from a pinch. I got the next hold and my feet came off. I hung there for a second before I fell. As I fell my right leg swung through the rope and I got rope burn.
The guy after me found an better sequence and topped out. Every one after me who got high enough used that sequence but only one other guy from my grade got that far.
Speed Qualification, Open and Junior
I came first in the Youth A and second in Open.
Open First Qualifier
This climb went up left of my first one and I topped out along with three other climbers.
Open Second Qualifier
I was first up for the second comp running. I did all right and came off about two thirds up the climb. At the end of the qualification round I was coming fourth.
Open Final
The open final went up a gradually steepening wall to a roof and then over the roof onto the head wall. I got past the roof and fell off going for an undercling crimp. I hit the side of the hold with my middle finger and held on for about a second before falling. Only one guy stuck the crimp and a couple of others threw for it but didn't hit it so in the end I came second.
Mum was coming first out of three in the Masters category after doing really well on her first qualifier.
Sun 8 May
Youth A Second Qualifier
This climb went up a vertical wall with the Youth D first qualifier on the wall to the right. I got past a hard move half way up and got a bridge by putting my foot on the Youth D climb. While I was resting I decided to go up the Youth D climb and come back to top out. This worked and I topped out.
The route setters weren't very happy about me using the Youth D holds and taped them out for the Juniors who were doing the route next. The Juniors, who I'd overheard planning to use the Youth D route, weren't very happy with me either. No one else in my grade did the hard move half way up, And I ended up coming first in the qualification round.
Youth A Final
My final went up a mildly overhanging wall onto the roof and then around the corner and up to top of the wall. I got past the roof and fell off going for a blue sidepull. The guy before me climbed really well and got to the second to last hold so I came second.
Mum came second in the Masters as well.
Speed Finals, Open and Junior
I came first in Youth A and second in Open.
Saturday, April 16, 2011
Wanaka Outdoor Climbing: Part 2
Thu 7 Apr
Dad and I warmed up on a cool slab climb and then I tried Onion again and, after a few goes at the start, I fell off on the crux move. I found an easier sequence and then came down and rested for a bit. When I next did the start I managed to keep going and send.
After that we went to an area called Sunnyside and I onsighted some climbs:
Sisters of Mercy (22)
Head on (24)
Creepy Crawler (23)
Dad did Sisters of Mercy second go and did all the moves on Creepy Crawler.
Fri 8 Apr
It was much more sunny than the previous days and we went to Sunnyside again. We warmed up on Mum's on the Run (20) and Dad tried Creepy Crawler but it was too hot and sunny for him to send. Because of the poor conditions we decided to go climb somewhere less sunny. We went to Riverside and I tried Inshallah (25) and sent the climb second go. I then tried Lollapalooza (26) and, after a long struggle, I made it to the top clean and onsighted it. This is the hardest onsight I have done and I was very pleased.
In the evening we packed and the next day we caught a couple of flights back to Wellington.
Photos:
1. Me resting before I send Onion
2. Me working out what to climb at Sunnyside
3. Riverside
4. Me ready to onsight Head on at Sunnyside
5. Me at the top of Lollapalooza
Thursday, April 14, 2011
Wanaka Outdoor Climbing: Part 1
Mon 4 Apr
Dad and I went to Roadside Attraction and we warmed up on Short Cut to Exposure, a 45m 17. I then onsighted Up Your Scud (23) and set up a top rope so I could try Onion (29). On my first attempt at Onion I spent ages working on the start before skipping out the hard move and trying the rest of the climb, which turned out not to be as hard. On my second go I managed to do the start and then got up to the crux at the top.
Tue 5 Apr: Rest Day
Wed 6 Apr: My Birthday
We warmed up on I Need a Pie (21). After a few goes I managed to get up to the crux clean on Onion, but I ripped the tip on my left hand pointer finger, which was tender from Monday, on a sharp hold at the crux so we had to tape it up when I came down. After falling off again on my next attempt I tried using the sharp hold with my back three fingers and when I came off my middle finger was bleeding! After we taped that finger up as well I found an easier sequence which didn't use the sharp hold. Dad sent Up Your Scud and I had another go at Onion but I was too tired to do the hard start.
Photos:
1. Roadside Attraction
2. Me by our rental car getting ready to go climbing
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Climbing NZ National Cup - Round 1, Base Camp Wanaka, Wanaka
On Friday 1 April Dad and I left Wellington on a climbing trip to Wanaka. We would be competing in round 1 of the National Cup Series. I would be in the Youth A Male grade and Dad would be doing Masters, and both of us were doing Opens as well. After the comp we would stay in Wanaka for a few days and do some outdoor climbing.
Sat 2 Apr: comp day 1
We got up at 8:00am, had breakfast and drove to the climbing gym. There were six people in my grade including me, and Dad was the only one in the Masters.
Youth A First Qualifier
My first climb went up an Arête and was quite technical and delicate but I managed to top out, without too much difficulty, along with two other people.
Speed Qualification, Open and Junior
The speed routes were very narrow and the one on the left was quite hard, the Youth D competitors fell off on that route. I got the fastest time in both Open and Youth A :).
Open First Qualifier
My first Open climb went up on to the right hand side of the roof and the last move was a dyno off a bad crimp to handle. I got a no hands rest before the roof but it didn't help much as I wasn't pumped. I got to the dyno but didn't hit the loop. At the end of the first round I was coming fourth equal with one other competitor.
Open Second Qualifier
My second Open climb went up onto the left side of the roof.I was first up and I fell off going to the second hold on the roof.
At the end of the Qualification round I was coming fifth and Dad came ninth.
Open Final
Our final route went up onto the roof, traversed right bit on to a 45° wall, traversed the 45° wall and then went back left across the roof and topped out. I fell off just before the climb back onto the roof. The climber before me topped and only one guy after me did better than me so I ended up coming third. I was pretty pleased with that result.
Sun 3 Apr: comp day 2
Youth A Second Qualifier
This climb went up onto the far right side of the roof and the two guys who topped our first qualifier topped this route along with me. At the end of the qualification round I was coming first equal with two other competitors.
Youth A Final
My final route roughly followed the same line as the Open second qualifier. I fell off on a hard throw to a sidepull on roof. The other guys who topped our qualifiers fell off at the same point so we all came first equal for the comp.
Speed Finals
I came first in Youth A, and second in Open.
Sat 2 Apr: comp day 1
We got up at 8:00am, had breakfast and drove to the climbing gym. There were six people in my grade including me, and Dad was the only one in the Masters.
Youth A First Qualifier
My first climb went up an Arête and was quite technical and delicate but I managed to top out, without too much difficulty, along with two other people.
Speed Qualification, Open and Junior
The speed routes were very narrow and the one on the left was quite hard, the Youth D competitors fell off on that route. I got the fastest time in both Open and Youth A :).
Open First Qualifier
My first Open climb went up on to the right hand side of the roof and the last move was a dyno off a bad crimp to handle. I got a no hands rest before the roof but it didn't help much as I wasn't pumped. I got to the dyno but didn't hit the loop. At the end of the first round I was coming fourth equal with one other competitor.
Open Second Qualifier
My second Open climb went up onto the left side of the roof.I was first up and I fell off going to the second hold on the roof.
At the end of the Qualification round I was coming fifth and Dad came ninth.
Open Final
Our final route went up onto the roof, traversed right bit on to a 45° wall, traversed the 45° wall and then went back left across the roof and topped out. I fell off just before the climb back onto the roof. The climber before me topped and only one guy after me did better than me so I ended up coming third. I was pretty pleased with that result.
Sun 3 Apr: comp day 2
Youth A Second Qualifier
This climb went up onto the far right side of the roof and the two guys who topped our first qualifier topped this route along with me. At the end of the qualification round I was coming first equal with two other competitors.
Youth A Final
My final route roughly followed the same line as the Open second qualifier. I fell off on a hard throw to a sidepull on roof. The other guys who topped our qualifiers fell off at the same point so we all came first equal for the comp.
Speed Finals
I came first in Youth A, and second in Open.
Saturday, March 5, 2011
Baring Head Rock Hop
On Saturday 26 February I went to round 2 of the NBS at Baring Head. As it happened I was the only Junior (under 16) competitor at the comp but that didn't stop me having a good day. I warmed up by doing a couple of V5s and then tried A Show of Strength (the first V8 in NZ, a climb I sent the previous weekend) but I didn't have much luck. I went back to the area where I warmed up and, after many attempts, sent a different V8 (Das Fuer). I did a V6 traverse and I did Sand and the Vaseline (V7). I then went over to Split Apple and did Split Apple One-Handed Dyno (V6). After that I tried different problems without much success and did another couple of V5s. Not long before 3pm when climbing finished, I finally did a V6 Dyno I'd been trying for ages.
At the end of the day I had a score of 500 points. I made a mistake when I added up my score and gave myself 600 points but I got it sorted out before the winners were announced and the spot prizes handed out.
At the end of the day I had a score of 500 points. I made a mistake when I added up my score and gave myself 600 points but I got it sorted out before the winners were announced and the spot prizes handed out.
Central North Island Climbing Trip: Part 3: 6-9 Feb
Day 6
I was pretty tied after the NBS the day before so I had a day of easy climbing. I warmed up on Bother (20, Flash) and then onsighted Zoomers (20). I flashed Opel (23), which was a bit hard for a day of easy climbing, and did some easier climbs.
Day 7: rest day
Day 8
I warmed up by putting the draws back on Louder and sent the climb two goes later. I then onsighted Mister Daddy Long Legs (22). Dad and Mum tried Opel and Dad managed to send. Mum also did Bother.
Day 9
We packed up and left Bryce's in the morning. On the way home we stopped at Mangaokewa and did some climbing. I tried Model of a Modern Major General (25/26) but the top holds were really dirty so I gave up. I then tried Hot Harissa (25) and sent the climb next go. Dad did Moonshine (23) and I warmed down by onsighting Yellow Snow (22). After that we left and went home.
I was pretty tied after the NBS the day before so I had a day of easy climbing. I warmed up on Bother (20, Flash) and then onsighted Zoomers (20). I flashed Opel (23), which was a bit hard for a day of easy climbing, and did some easier climbs.
Day 7: rest day
Day 8
I warmed up by putting the draws back on Louder and sent the climb two goes later. I then onsighted Mister Daddy Long Legs (22). Dad and Mum tried Opel and Dad managed to send. Mum also did Bother.
Day 9
We packed up and left Bryce's in the morning. On the way home we stopped at Mangaokewa and did some climbing. I tried Model of a Modern Major General (25/26) but the top holds were really dirty so I gave up. I then tried Hot Harissa (25) and sent the climb next go. Dad did Moonshine (23) and I warmed down by onsighting Yellow Snow (22). After that we left and went home.
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