Central North Island Climbing Trip: Part 3: 6-9 Feb

Day 6

I was pretty tied after the NBS the day before so I had a day of easy climbing. I warmed up on Bother (20, Flash) and then onsighted Zoomers (20). I flashed Opel (23), which was a bit hard for a day of easy climbing, and did some easier climbs.

Day 7: rest day

Day 8

I warmed up by putting the draws back on Louder and sent the climb two goes later. I then onsighted Mister Daddy Long Legs (22). Dad and Mum tried Opel and Dad managed to send. Mum also did Bother.

Day 9

We packed up and left Bryce's in the morning. On the way home we stopped at Mangaokewa and did some climbing. I tried Model of a Modern Major General (25/26) but the top holds were really dirty so I gave up. I then tried Hot Harissa (25) and sent the climb next go. Dad did Moonshine (23) and I warmed down by onsighting Yellow Snow (22). After that we left and went home.

Central North Island Climbing Trip: Part 2: 4-5 Feb

Day 4: Rest day

We went up to Hamilton to go supermarket shopping and watched a movie.

Day 5: NBS Waitomo

We got up early and drove to Waitomo to register before briefing at 9:45. It was raining when we got there so the comp was postponed to start at 11:00.

A competitor's score in an NBS comp is determined by their top 8 problems. The score of each problem based on the Fibonacci sequence:

VE = 1
VM = 2
V0 = 3
V1 = 5
V2 = 8
and so on

My top 8 problems were:

V7 - problem 10 Greek Gods (repeat, extremely soft V7 which everyone does)
V6 - Oh Lord (repeat)
V6 - Swing and a Miss
V6 - Got Dirt
V5 - Down Load
V5 - problem 10 Totem Area (repeat)
V5 - Reservoir Dogs
V5 - Roasted Addiction

I had a score of 390 points. As well as the problems above I did Echo Psycosis (V4) and got close to Wazzup (V8), a one move wonder I tried the year before as well.

I won the Junior Male category (under 16 as of 01/01/11) and won a set of Metolius 3D rock rings for coming first. Dad also won a set of Metolius portable power grips as a spot prize.

Central North Island Climbing Trip: Part 1: 1-3 Feb

Day 1

After my sister left for school camp on Tuesday the 1st, Mum, Dad and I drove up to Bryce's at Wharepapa South, and then unpacked into our unit. We stayed at Bryce's for the duration of our trip and climbed mainly at Froggatt Edge.

Day 2

We went to Froggatt and I warmed up by onsighting Lunar Leopard (21), and then did this really hard 23 called Hardon, 3rd go. After that I tried Louder (28), a climb that had been recommended to me as a soft 28.

We went back for an evening session and I tried Louder again.

Day 3

I tried Louder again and on my second go I got really close and fell off on the crux pocket near the top. After that I was too tired to send and on my next attempt I had to clean the route in case the weather was bad after the NBS comp on Saturday and we went home early.

Photos:

1 . me working out what to warm up on
2 . & 3. me on Louder

Black Out

I started working on Black Out , a V9 at Turakirae Head, about the same time as I started working on Mr Olympia. But, because I made more progress on Mr Olympia, I stopped working on Black Out, and focused on Mr Olympia instead. The day I sent Mr Olympia I tried Black Out again, but because I still couldn't do one of the hard moves I decided the problem was too hard for me. A few days before I went to Paynes I tried the problem again and found a new sequence for the move I couldn't do before, but I didn't send.

On Wednesday 26 January, Dad and I went out to Turakirae for an evening session and after many goes I finally managed to put it all together, stick the top sloper and send the climb. Black Out is my second V9 and my third V9 or higher.

Paynes Ford 2011: Part 3

Day 13 15/1

I sent Dancing on a Skewer in the morning and then tried the direct version (29), but that was too hard for me so I gave up. I then onsighted Amino Pro (24). In the afternoon we went to the main swimming hole and I tried a problem called The Acid Test. I got the problem but I thrashed around with my feet in the water near the end of the roof so I don't think it counts as a send.

Day 14 16/1

I sent Make My Day (25) second go having tried it once last year. I then tried the climb next to it, Feeling Lucky Punk (25). I onsighted Why Would You Wave To a One Armed Man Riding a Bike (25). We took friends climbing that day so I didn't do any more notable climbs but Mum did her first 22, You're Either Dead or You're Not.

Day 15

Dad and I went to Pohara and climbed on the sea cliffs. I warmed by flashing Coup de Grace (22), sent Red Tape (25) second go and warmed down with an onsight of Honor and Obey (21).

The next day we packed up in the rain and went home.

The photos are:

1 Me and Mum stretching.
2 Me, Mum and Dad on the ferry.

Paynes Ford 2011: Part 2

Day 8 10/1

Had a rest day.

Day 9 11/1

I warmed up on Electricorp Production (22), a climb I'd had a go at last year, and sent Bulga Nomics fourth go total. After that I worked on Electrocution (27).

Day 10 12/1

I sent Electrocution in the morning and then had a couple of goes at Dancing on a Skewer (28). I warmed down by onsighting Woop Woop Pull Up (22).

Day 11 13/1

I onsighted Recidivist (20) as a warm up and then worked on Dancing on a Skewer for a bit and got to the top with only one fall. After that I sent Gravity (24) second go having tried once last year. Some climbing friends from Nelson gave me lots of beta on the climb which helped a lot.

Day 12 14/1

Rest day and Dad's birthday.

The photos are:

1 Me, Mum and Dad at The Grove
2 Me during a rest day
3 Me on Electrocution
4 Me on Dancing on a Skewer

Paynes Ford 2011: Part 1

On Sunday 2 January my family and I embarked on a two week holiday in Takaka, Golden Bay. Most of our days would be spent climbing at Paynes Ford. We had gone to Paynes during the summer for the last three years and it's my favourite crag.

Day 1 3/1

I warmed up by onsighting Feeding the Rat (21) which was probably a bit hard for my first climb of the year. I then struggled on Slaprobatics (24). This is probably the dirtiest climb I have ever tried. After that I had a couple goes at African Head Charge a very pumpy 25m 26. At the end of the day I decided that, having spent the last one and a half months bouldering and doing very little route climbing, my endurance was very poor.

Day 2 4/1

I onsighted The Good the Bad and the Dread (23), worked on African Head Charge and had a go at Mea Culpa (27).

Day 3 5/1

Had a rest day.

Day 4 6/1

Had another rest day because it was raining.

Day 5 7/1

The top of African Head Charge was wet so I worked on Mea Culpa instead.

Day 6 8/1

I flashed Bury Me in a Y Shaped Coffin (21) as a warm up and spent the rest of the day working on Mea Culpa.

Day 7 9/1

After warming up I finally sent Mea Culpa and then followed it up by sending African Head Charge. I then tried Bulga Nomics, a 25 I'd tried the year before. At the end of the day I decided I had my endurance back.

The Photos are:

1 Me on African Head Charge
2&3 Me on Mea Culpa
4 The African head